Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Spohn LCA

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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Spohn LCA

I have an 89 firebird 350 formula with new shocks, struts, and a spohn subframe connector. My sfc are not welded completely down the body didnt want to take out the carpet. I want to use my car for weekend twisty road driving. Does any one have any ideas if I should first get my sfc welded all the way down the body of my car or get boxed or tubular lca from spohn. Remeber i want to improve my handling for twisty roads. I heard the boxed ones can bind is this true is boxed or tubular better for handling.
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Get'em welded, then purchase the Spohn's tubular.

JamesC
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Should I also get a wonder bar first or pan bar before doing the lca
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Your call on the wonder bar. I'd say go for it, they're pretty cheap.
The aftermarket boxed and tubular are pretty much the same from a functional standpoint. Neither one will help much as far as twisty roads, both will tend to induce bind. Get some poly/rod end ones, and/or use oversized 3/4" rod ends with a delrin bushing over the bolt to help cushion it.
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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So what would be the best imporvements i could do for my car's handling at this point under 500 bucks.
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
swaybars
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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i thought the sway bars that came with the 350 formulas were already big
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:08 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
formula? Not sure, measure 'em and find out.
I'd replace every bushing under the car, with a poly urethane or poly graphite. $300 for the kit to do everything, roughly. Now that'd be a big difference
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally Posted by glennjamin48
So what would be the best imporvements i could do for my car's handling at this point under 500 bucks.
anything broken/worn
then shocks.
then tires.
then bracing.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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does anyone know where i could find my swaybar size without having to get it measured
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 12:45 AM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
no. Just take your caliper and reach under, it's not exactly hard to get to.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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thanks for all the help i think im going to redue the bushings in my car now
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
check ur rpo codes to see what suspension you have, then check this
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...ghlight=inside

i wouldnt do sway bars if your car has the big bars already, which it should. aftermarket stuff isnt any bigger
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 10:46 AM
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Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: 700R4
I would check the bars regardless, unless you are the original owner of the car. The 36/24 combo can be sold for a decent amount of money, and it's possible that an earlier owner sold them off (if the car came originally equipped with them in the first place).

If you want good LCAs that won't bind, go with Spohn or BMR tubulars with quality rod ends. If you have the money, buy 'em in cm instead of mild steel. Lighter car overall, and less unsprung weight, will translate to better handling.

- Justin
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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that sounds really good ill change out the bushings first then will put in tubular lca
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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yeah but keep in mind that rod ends are loud and wear out faster than any polyurethane bushing will. If you are using this as a street vehicle I'd say go for polyurethane ends. Since he has a formula 350 he may be good on sway bars, but I'm a camaro guy so I'm not sure. Since you have sfc, get them welded in first, second replace all of your crap rubber bushings for poly ones. I'm not sure about the real difference between the boxed and tubulars. I'm assuming that the boxed are better for straight line perfomance. Also are you keeping the car at the same height or are you lowering it also?
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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I am going to keep the car at stock height b/c I am already having problems with clearance
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