So i decided to spend a little money this week, ls1 drive shaft, $121, edelbrock 3 pt. strut tower brace, $126, sway bar bushings from HAWK'S $60, and moog steering components from rockauto.


So i'm about ready to checkout and i decided to check around first. so i was looking at spohns bump steer kit.

It looks like this kit replaces the outer tie-rods/sleve adjusters? i dont want to buy new outer tie rods if i'm just going to replace them, so can i skip buying the moog outer tie rods and sleve adjusters? Thanks

-Scott

 

yep, if you want the bump steer kit. I bought it and love it. Its great for lowered cars to correct your steering geometry. Really nice pieces as well!

ps. Though I did have to have my inner tie rod shortened to properly align the front end.

 

So you have to take off a little bit off the inner tie rod? thanks for the heads up, thats not a problem, so i'm going to go order it right now thanks for the info!

-Scott-

 

Just curious... How low are you guys going that you need the bump steer kit???

Im running a Eibach Prokit and even though Im running all new/upgraded steering/suspension, my tie rod set up is stock except for the solid adjusters. I havent had even the slightest hint of bump steer or ill handling. Not saying the bump steer kit isnt a good part...Just wondering how low you gotta before you see a benefit.

J.

 

Are these needed?

My car are very low.

Never noticed any bump steer.

If the car did bump steer it would dial out less steering angle not more.

How will these work if the tie rod is already inside the bell of the wheel, say a 17 x 9.5?

If someone can explain the benefit I may buy some too.

 

I dont think they are necessary for most ppl. I would call spohn and talk to them since they are the ones who designed it for our cars. They can probably tell you exactly how their design works but overall for me, I will eventually road race my car and want to be able to have the adjustability to tune my steering angle (and yet another component of my suspension) whenever needed, quickly, and without having to lift the car.

Plus they look very trick compared to old rusty tie rod ends.

 

i'm about 2" lowered, its not too bad right now, i'll notice it every now and then, i just want everything nice and stable, potholes come out of nowhere every now and again. but after relocation brackets: control arm and panhard relcation brackets in the rear i want everything to be that good in the front also, those parts made a big difference. next are drop spindles, then its time to start fooling around with weight jacks and konis

p.s. i'm probaly going to go a little lower when the stiffer spring/shock setup goes in next month. maybe another 1/2 inch or so

 

SDIF(Cash), The cars will experience bump steer with excessive caster. What you need to do is remove the springs and run the suspension trough the travel range taking toe readings. This kit allows you to retaylor the tierod hieght in proportion to the a-arm angle to give a more symetrical swing becasue the tierod starts pulling back and shortening.Good alignment shops can actually just ratchet down the nose of you car on the alignment rack without spring removal and this allows them to take toe measurements through the range.
Dean