Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

So the steering is floaty and when I put on the brakes infrequently it pulls left, most of the time it doesn't.

I've rebuilt the steering box and rag joint. Tie rod sleeves are new/snug. All new brake parts (calipers, rotors, lines, pads). New KYB struts and upper strut mounts.

I observed the idler arm bobbing a bit up and down turning the steering back and forth.

And the front end creaks and groans over uneven pavement.

I'm way over my budget after spending tons on engine parts to get it running right (I did all the work myself).

I'm pretty sure everything is original under there. 1989, 118,000 miles.

Alignment came back OK and the shop said the control arm bushings seemed fine.

I'd like to learn how to proceed rather than replacing parts *****-nilly like I ended up doing on the engine.

I've tightened up every bolt I can find and did not notice any cracks when I replaced my steering box (but I may have missed them).

All wise, sage advice on how to proceed appreciated. I'm all up for checking things myself and am pretty capable.

W.E.G.

If there is nothing seriously broken under there, the smart money is on let-it-ride.

Otherwise, you can spend a LOT of time and money wrestling with all those suspension parts to make small changes.

I'm not especially strapped for Camaro cash, I've got plenty of time, and I wanted a project. So, I'm going through the entire front suspension and replacing all the perishable parts. Necessary? - not really. Fun project? - yeah so far.

Remember, at the end of the day, you will have a car that was conceived as a low-cost sports car. Don't set your expectations too high as to the result. Have fun if you can.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

I would but I eventually want to flip the car and start another project. Selling one with sounds like that isn't going to help. I've got the car running great, paint will be cleaned up, and interior is good, and it will have a factory head unit with a trick sound system hidden away, so the squeaks have to go, the steering should be tight, and the brakes consistent.

naf

iTrader: (7)

any up and down movement is cause to replace the idler arm. I'd replace it before proceeding with any other work. install the new one so that it is the same height as the pitman arm, referenced from the frame.

Ghettobird52

If your going to attempt to the sell the car any time soon, stop putting money into it. FYI Your wasting your time and money you will NOT get anything near what you think you will for repairing things.

Seriously.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

I will replace the pitman arm and set it. And Ghetto, I hope aren't correct, but a little voice inside me feels like it should agree with you. I know this to be true for performance upgrades. They are essentially worthless, but for these cars, which are rising quickly in desirability, I still believe that selling a properly running car (not performance enhanced) with receipts, will help fetch a better price.

Ghettobird52

Yes the receipts will def help with the 'maintained' factor for the buyers, i actually ask for any shop receipts/part orders when buying any cars and alot of times sellers have them, but i just wanted to make sure you werent thinking " ok i spent $150 on brakes so that adds $150 value to sale price".
I didnt mean it as an insult in anyway i honestly learned this about 5 years ago when i thought about selling my third gen. Then i realized how much i put into it and was like ok im just going to keep it.... Now im at the point where i justify keeping it by telling myself "it was your first car, you cant just sell that away!" Something about the blood and sweat put into it as well...

But Sounds like you have the right mind set!

W.E.G.

I say go for it man.

Of course if I were the flip-ee and I was trying to beat down you as the flip-er, I'd look at the new idler arm, and ask you why you didn't do the the other umptey-eleven things that a thirty-year-old Chevy needs in order to be up to snuff. I mean, while we're at it, are the motor mounts original to the vehicle? That can't be good.

Seriously, we're rooting for ya. At least I hope folks are rooting for me as I tumble tookas-over-teakettle down this rabbit hole of third gen madness.

But remember: Just because you're a flip-er, doesn't mean the next guy has the same madness. Third gen buyers want it cheap. The only thing third-gen that goes for even close to good money is low-miles, garage kept, perfect paint, all original. Something that was along those lines and perfectly-perfect went for a whole $20K at a recent Mecum auction. Throw an idler arm on there. What can it hurt but your wallet?

Your car sounds like a pretty nice ride, and you seem to know the car well. The thing that rubs me about your whole premise is not that you are talking about spending more money on it. Rather, the thing that chafes me is that you are talking about giving it up. What the hell is wrong with you?

So long as you have a place to park it, and enough money to keep it rolling, this "eventually" you speak of is a dirty word.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Hah, no worries. I have no plans to sell it, and if I did, it would be for another 3rd gen restore. I have literally replaced everything on the engine except the pistons and cam. Timing set, valve stem seals, every sensor, injectors, you name it. And yes, the mounts. What s PITA. Anyway, it runs really nice. I want it to be a very clean car that you can get in, start up and go. Nothing fancy, just real clean with a new car shine.