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I came across this earlier, and was wondering if anyone had tried them or knew anything else about them. $500 for the pair, with hubs, seems like a steal.
Honestly, with the DRP Wheel Bearing Spacers, We have produced a significant amount of "Hub Assemblies" from Rotor Cores...
And have been Extremely happy with the Stock Spindles and what behaves like a Modern Hub Assembly, but is fully rebuildable.
These don't look right at all. Im all for new products but I just don't see how these will work geometry wise and they don't look like they would be strong, Im aware of hawks spindles having geometry issues. Hawks unit look much better built.
i wouldn't touch these. Ill stick w my modified stock spindles and wilwoods.
Last edited by Firechicken82; May 9, 2026 at 06:33 AM.
These have been available for a couple of months now. I have a couple of pictures of them IRL from different angles, and they look good, better than they do in that stock image. But it's true that the strut mount has been relocated, like you see it. It appears to move the mount slightly lower, which would provide better strut travel with lowered suspensions, also inward, which would allow a bit more clearance for wider wheels, but it also moves it forward of center, all of which would change the angle of the strut and probably the alignment too.
Supposedly someone important at CPP has been running them on a car for a while now with no issues, so I don't think they plan to redesign them, but I think the design has left potential customers unsure about them, so I'm not sure if they've sold any yet or not. Other than the strut mount, they're no different than the ones they've been selling for 2ndgens for about 10 years, which have been very popular and durable, so there shouldn't be any quality concerns. Just that strut mount location, even though the description says retains factory geometry.
Someone here is going to have to test them, or we're not likely to ever know, unless a Rep from CPP comes on here to tell us about them.
Either way, a little competition is good...for us. Ive been waiting for the hawks spindle to go on sale, but now with this kit, idk. These guys are in my neighborhood too. Wonder if i can go look at these in person and maybe get a better deal. Ima call.
they mounted the sturt sideways for clearance. Idk, the steering arm wasnt corrected and who knows where the ride height will be.
The ones from hawks looked the most promising but they screwed up and idk if they are reworking them
Id stick with stock
I wouldn't hold my breath on them fixing anything. Their LS swap motor stands have been too short on the PS side for 20 years now
The CPP spindle does look goofy. I'm curious how the geometry compares to stock or the hawks pieces
Would be nice if these companies would offer multiple tierod positions for R&P conversions. Hawks has a halfway position thats not great for drag link and still too long for R&P
Some of those auction pics look photoshopped. Steering arm looks straight/upright, but not in others. Two different positions on the strut mount, but that could be the angle.
So i ordered the kit above before i posted that and been driving to/from work daily for the last week and a half.I already had the calipers/rotors and i purchased the C7 hubs a few months back. However, I decided yesterday to uninstall it, but took some pics/vids during removal. Reason being, i had already bought 1LE rotors over a year ago to go back to the 1LE set-up i had since the mid 90s. What stopped me from doing that were the hawks spindles release and I was still pondering those when i saw these CPP spindles. Anyway, the CPP set-up isnt all bad. It does NOT move the strut body much because it needs rotating almost 180* to install. This puts lower strut mounting bolt right in front of the swaybar ends. About where the bottom of the strut already is with the OE spindles. My issue has always been the Hotchkis swaybar. Even with the OE spindle the end of the swaybar always rubbed against the strut (lock/lock). With the CPP spindle it now rubs against the bolt head, but thats a hotchkis fault.
Other drawbacks:
1. The brake hose has nowhere to secure it to the strut. Since the little bracket is now on the opposite side of the strut. Small potatoes on both though.
2. My bump steer contacted the wheel rim. So i went back to my stock (outer) tie rod. I did NOT need longer tie rod sleeves.
Plus:
1. Does NOT lower the car nor move the wheel forward or rearward in the wheel well. I measured all three prior to removing the old set-up.
2. Also does NOT move wheel it in/out. The kit comes with spacers for the hub/wheel though. Neither of which i needed, but i did keep the hawks spacer provided with their wheels.
My hi-tech example, blue are the strut placement comparison.
All mounted up. Of course i never took a pic of it on the ground, .
Lock to lock vid. You can see the small contact mark on the bolt head at 3 o'clock.
The problem though is the end of the bar is contacting the bolt head on the strut, maybe the washer too. Its while driving/turning lock/lock with the suspension moving up/down that concerns me some, but its the bar end itself thats really the issue.
Id long ago trimmed the bolt on the endlink and switched to thinner bushings and shorter sleeve sometime after the Hotchkis bar was installed, but the bar itself is slightly longer i think than the stock bar. Not much i can do except switch back, but not really interested in doing that.
Thankfully the kit wasnt that expensive. Maybe ill keep it, just in case, undecided.
Looks like the LCA mount is the root of the issue. It's a full tube diameter too tall. No biggie for stock spindles, but the designer never planned for this unit
If you're not against modifying the LCAs, then I'd chop off the mount and reattach to the bottom of the tubes. The aftermarket sway bar being wider than stock may benefit from the better positioning
LCA mount! You mean the endlink mount? I never noticed where its welded, but you may have a point. Im not againt repositioning the mount lower. Just not sure how good my welding skills are, but i may be tempted to try that. Even with the 1le spindles it would help move it down/away from the strut.
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