Car is not cranking, Its getting fuel and spark. It has'nt started since I replaced the valve seals. It has had other problems though. It hasn't been drove in about two years, only started three or four times since then. The fuel pump went out about two years ago, then about two months ago I started fixing on it. First I started with the flywheel(it was cracked), while I had the tranny out I installed a 1900-2100 Summit converter. The tranny got front and rear seals and a drain plug kit. Next I went to work on the fuel pump. At the time I was planing on going to a carb( before I found this site and decited to give the Holley 670 a try). I installed a Holley Blue pump(this is under the hood of the car, I'm still having a problem getting fuel out of the tank, I think this has to do with a cloged up sock in the tank, but for now I'm sucking fuel out of a five gal jug, so its getting fuel) while I was waiting for fuel lines to get made I thought I might as well try the Ultimite TBI Mod, I got a TBI rebuild kit and did the mod while rebuilding the TBI unit. Turned out I had to buy one new injector(the drivers side one). I thought it would be good to fix the valve seals(car smoked bad when it sat at idle for a while, never smoked any going down the road). I replaced the valve seals and O-rings. After all this was done the car stoped fireing and getting fuel, turned out it was a bad modgle, it got replaced last. But the car still don't crank. Do ya think that the valves could have got tightened too tight? I really don't think I over tightened them( I only went untill the stem didn't move up & down any more then 1/2 turn more), but if I did would it cause the car not to start? Thanks, Bobby

 

Come on!! No one has a clue? Give me some help here, I see all kind of ideas on here everyday, someone give me something!! Please? Bobby

 

if the car sat for two years, than you probably fried the solenoid with to much cranking on an engine that wouldnt start

 

Fried solenoid??? What are you talking about?? The car turns over fine. It gets good fire and its spraying nice looking patterens of fuel it just don't start.

 

sorry, i thought you said it wouldnt crank

 

That's exactly what he said, nick, but he meant "Car cranks but won't fire".. you're supposed to be a psychic mechanic.. come on

To replace the module you obviously had the cap off.. to get the cap out of the way you probably had to remove wires from it (I recall having very little space to work).. so I'm forced to ask, have you checked the timing and firing order?

Also, are you plumbing your fuel return into the jug or just continuing to fill your tank from it?

If you overtightened the rockers, it's possible you're losing compression, and valve lash setting is an art.

It may be wise to start a new thread with a topic more appropriate, i.e. "Engine cranks but won't fire" rather than a topic which suggest starter failure, and you may want to use multiple paragraphs to make it a little easier to decipher what you're saying..

 

Car fires good! Wires was not took off to replace modgle. The car is in time and all the wires are in place. And yes Im continuing to fill my tank up with returned gas! But that is not keeping the car from starting. I know valve lash is a ART, theres no dought about that but then this is not the first time I've did it. Not much though maybe ten times at MOST! I've never had any trouble before, I have had to redo them while the car was running, never had a car not start though. I'm lost on this one????? I'm dropping the tank at the end of this week and going from there. At least thats one more thing that I'll know thats right. Thanks, Bobby

 

If the cylinders are firing, then you've got no problem.. spark IS NOT fire. Spark is spark. Anyway, if the timing is dead on (and I do hope you proved this with a light while trying to crank it), then you've got the main 3.. fuel, air, and spark. That leaves compression and valve timing.

 

So do you think if I overtighten the valves it wouln't start? I've not checked the timimg with a light since it has not started. I have moved thr distribtor to find the "sweet spot" for cranking, I'm sure you know what I'm talking(sweet spot) about if you've worked on cars that much. I've started cars like this for years, hell this one alone dozens of times before. But yes it's getting spark, air(of course) and fuel.
I started it up by pouring gas in the intake right before I installed the valve seals. If nothing else this week end I'm droping the tank and getting the pump to pull fuel from the tank. At least thats one more thing that is for sure about it. I'm probley going to install a new rear end while I've got it up on stands. An Aussie unit out of a '89 Formula 350 with 3.70 gears, Auburn LSD and 32 spline axels.
I really want to get this thing going to give the TBI a try at performance. I've got a #3970010 high nickle 350 4bolt block in the shop now getting ready to make a 383 out of it. If I can get this TBI motor now to running I'm going to try a Holley 670cfm with 80lb injectors from Howell Eng on the 383, if this 305TBI don't run soon all this computer crap is coming out.
I realise the computer most likely is not the problem with it now, but G*dam* I'm mad. In the past couple of months I've spent close to $1500 and it still don't run!!! Almost makes me want to buy a Ford! LOL I never would though, I really hate them, hell I'll push this one first. Sh*t I'd have now! LOL Thanks for any help you can give me, Bobby

 

Yeehaw

 

... have you checked the plugs lately? Does it run on starting fluid?....

 

Check that all the spark plug wires are on in the right order. Check your plugs to see that they're not fried. Run a compression test. Make sure you disconnect the EST before you try and set the timing and set it with a timing gun. Are the injectors pulsing evenly?

Yeehaw it is
Tony

 

Plugs and wires are fine. The plugs have never even been started in the car. But the wires are in the right order. I'm wanting to know if the valves are overtightened will the car not start? Starting fluid helps non what-so-ever! I ran a compresion test after I put the valve seals in, I don't remember what they was they were kinda low but should get a check at running temp! The rings seal more then! So I don't think it was real accurite since the car has not been run for more than a few seconds in two years. Thanks, Bobby

 

I know the plug wires are fine from what you descibed but...
have you tried the different firing orders on the cap? there are about 8 or 9 different firing orders on the cap, from the firewall going clockwise my cap order is 36572184 not the one that the manuel suggests (57218436)as being the only one way, it didnt used to run very well. and for about 3 weeks if wouldnt even crank the above was the problem. i had everything tested to make sure it was working correctly. but it blew smoke so i am having done what you had done.. New Seals. its best to have 2 people to do something like this so one can crank and one can turn the distributor. but hey its usually something simple that gets overlooked
I dont know if the lashing is the problem havent heard of anyone having this problem before.

 

As for two people I have a remote starter(a trigger device that hooks to the starter). My fireing order is 18436572. The two you listed below are the same order, just a different starting point???? On a 1st gen SBC I only know of two fireing orders from the factory. The order can be changed by the cam though. I think the LS1's have a different order(something with the 5 & 7 fireing side by side) don't know for sure what it is. It has been thought that power could be found by changeing the two cylinders that fire side by side.
But I've had my distributor several times the fireing order is right, I'm sure of that. Like I said this weekend I'm dropping the fuel tank and getting it to pull fuel from the tank instead of a jug. Possable even installing another rear end, I found one of the Aussie rears with a 3.70 Auburn LSD and 32 spline axels for $300+shipping. I'm getting this for sure at least it will pull harder if it ever runs again?????????Thanks, Bobby

 

Did you get it running yet? If not try changing the oil, it sounds dumb but sometimes oil can become diluted with gas and not seal the pistons well enough. Try some 50w.