I cant seem to get my heater to work, Where would I need to conect stuff to see if the motor works, or to see if its getting power


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86 Trans Am 355 TPI Rebuilt 700R4 with Corvette servo, modified valve body, and a B&M Torque Converter (2000 rpm stall w/ lock up), 87 350 block bored .30 with new crank, bearings, rings, and magnafluxed rods. Reworked 305 heads with 3-angle valve job. Added in the rebuild was an SLP TPI cam, BBK 58mm Throttle Body,SVO 24# injectors,MSD 6A, Hypertech Power Coil, 1.5 Crane roller tipped rocker arms, SLP Intake Runners and Port matching in upper intake including fully ported plenum, TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator @ 46psi, Hooker shorty style headers w/ Thermotech heat wrapping, Custom 3” exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and chrome quad tips, Hypertech Thermomaster Computer chip, K&N open element cone filter on modified MAF per TPIS specs, MSD Wires, removal of A/C hardware and a 1LE firewall cover installed. Also there has been a PST front suspension kit with Hotchkis strut tower brace
http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Garage/9548/kyle.html

Kills:
95 Talon TSI, 96 Probe GT, 91 T/A L98, 89 RS, 86 Mustang GT, 88 Mustang LX 5.0, 92 Thunderbird V8. couple or ricers that I think were Civics or Preludes not sure what year, 95 Celica GT-S, 94 Chevy 1/4 ton 350, one of those NASCAR F150's

 

youre blower motor??? youde have just jump the wires going to it to 12v and ground, should spin both ways. Check your switch too. I dont remember which terminals to jump there. Check em with a test light first, you dont wana be blowing fuses, usually if a blower motor is going bad, fuses are popping anyway because its drawing to much current because resistance is building inside the motor, also causing it to heat up and burn up, killing it completely. replacement of a blower motor isnt usually fun. requires taking apart the heater core in some cars. I dont know bout ours. ac/heating shop should charge less than 55 an hour to do, check a chiltons labor manual for labor estimates.

in any case, youll be taking apart your dash a little.

[This message has been edited by snflupigus (edited December 02, 2000).]

 

First tap on the blower motor housing(it's on the firewall all the way over by the pass. fender . Do this with the blower switch turned on, key on etc., sometimes they stick and you could solve your problem without going any further.

 

I have removed the AC and replaced the blower wheel and housing with the 1LE equipment. So its not as bas as you think.
The switch, you mean the relay, I tried to buy a new one a few months back ,but the parts store didn't stock the one I had and said they couldn't cross reference the number so I gave up becuase I didn't need it. Now its getting colder and If I want to drive my car I am going to need the heat

 

i was thinking of the switch in your console. but the blower motor relay could be bad too. we replace those at the shop on a regular basis. I could ask my tech mon for a number and get it to you. hes been in the biz for 30 years, and could tell you off the top of his head what the pn for an 86 rabit ac compressor is. seriously. ill ask him monday and get back up here for ya

 

OK thanks for the help I will check back monday evening

 

Just sending it back to the top to reemind you

 

blower motor wires are in the engine compartment on the heatercore. just jump em to hot, and one to ground, see if it works. My tech says, its a rule that they go out when it gets cold . As for the switch or the blower motor relay, just get out a test light and see if the motor is getting power, if the switch is getting power and if the relay is working. Blower motor = $40 or as low as $20. Relay = $5. sitch = no more than $7?. you just gotta check all your wires out with a test light. The magic test light. Well, thats what my tech said. Just gotta check em.