Cold air induction, open element
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Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Cold air induction, open element
Anyone with the powerbulge hood ever hook up the cold air induction setup (from 82-84 CFI Trans Am) WITH and open element air cleaner installed?
I found one to buy and I like the idea - I could imagine hooking it up to open with the throttle, but with the open element, I wonder how much of that cold air would benefit my intake, since it's not all forced to suck into the air cleaner... anybody tried this? Any thoughts?
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Joel Geerling
Red 91 Formula, 305 TBI
Edelbrock 14x3 open element
TBI 1/2" spacer
Hypertech street chip
Crank/Alt Pulleys
*
Exhaust is next!
I found one to buy and I like the idea - I could imagine hooking it up to open with the throttle, but with the open element, I wonder how much of that cold air would benefit my intake, since it's not all forced to suck into the air cleaner... anybody tried this? Any thoughts?
------------------
Joel Geerling
Red 91 Formula, 305 TBI
Edelbrock 14x3 open element
TBI 1/2" spacer
Hypertech street chip
Crank/Alt Pulleys
*
Exhaust is next!
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
It should work pretty much the same way as a cowl induction hood. Although the only real way to gain the benefits of it is to close off the underhood air. You can do that buy installing a pan that is the same size & shape as the 'bulge' and route it to your air cleaner.
I don't know if I'm explaining it right.
(1) Make a pan outta sheet metal that sits under the air cleaner and runs over to the area under the 'bulge' in the hood.
(2) Use some of that black foam to seal the hood to the pan when the hood is closed, and glue it to the pan you made.
If you look in the Jeg's or Summit catalog in the same section that the hood scoops are in, then you see what I'm talking about. You won't be able to buy a pre-made one for your car, so just make it yourself.
The hardest part is going to be supporting the sheet metal directly under the part of the hood that sits over the valve cover. I'm sure you can make a perch, or bracket, or something.
Good luck,
AJ
I don't know if I'm explaining it right.
(1) Make a pan outta sheet metal that sits under the air cleaner and runs over to the area under the 'bulge' in the hood.
(2) Use some of that black foam to seal the hood to the pan when the hood is closed, and glue it to the pan you made.
If you look in the Jeg's or Summit catalog in the same section that the hood scoops are in, then you see what I'm talking about. You won't be able to buy a pre-made one for your car, so just make it yourself.

The hardest part is going to be supporting the sheet metal directly under the part of the hood that sits over the valve cover. I'm sure you can make a perch, or bracket, or something.
Good luck,
AJ
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joel Geerling:
Anyone with the powerbulge hood ever hook up the cold air induction setup (from 82-84 CFI Trans Am) WITH and open element air cleaner installed?
</font>
Anyone with the powerbulge hood ever hook up the cold air induction setup (from 82-84 CFI Trans Am) WITH and open element air cleaner installed?
</font>
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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
I removed the block off plate from my cowl and run a open element filter...
I have done a few data captures down the quarter mile and have confirmed 5-7 degree drops in air temperature while making the runs. I was thinkning of adding a K&N LID filter to see if that helps.
IMHO i don't think the factory power bulge is that efficient in bringing in the amount of cool dence air my motor needs. I think a Ram Air 'glass hood is on my x-mas list. Then I'll fabricate some duct work to direct the air to the filter.
Btw I also used that Ram-Air Box with the dual 3" tubes... The car ran 3 tenths slower than with a open element.
I have done a few data captures down the quarter mile and have confirmed 5-7 degree drops in air temperature while making the runs. I was thinkning of adding a K&N LID filter to see if that helps.
IMHO i don't think the factory power bulge is that efficient in bringing in the amount of cool dence air my motor needs. I think a Ram Air 'glass hood is on my x-mas list. Then I'll fabricate some duct work to direct the air to the filter.
Btw I also used that Ram-Air Box with the dual 3" tubes... The car ran 3 tenths slower than with a open element.
I think the openings on most of those ram air hoods are too small to do much good. Ligenfelter even blocked them off on his '96-'97 WS6 Trans Ams that I've seen.
------------------
-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
------------------
-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
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