Leaking Injector Pod?
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Leaking Injector Pod?
My TBI injector seems to be leaking at idle they both spray the fine mist but one has a small drip that is visible. The only thing is I have tried several injectors and even put in a new one still the same thing a fine mist out of one the other a fine mist and drips. I swapped the injector wires to see if maybe that was it but still the same thing. I have done everything I can think off but replace the pod has anyone seen a the injector pod cause a leak like this.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
Hot wire the fuel pump to run with the engine off. Then see if it still drips. Usually there is a red wire pigtail underhood that can be jumpered to the + battery terminal. That will run the pump.
There could be a defect in the pod casting or a nick in an o-ring seat.
RBob.
There could be a defect in the pod casting or a nick in an o-ring seat.
RBob.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
I second checking the o-rings for cracks or tears, i had a similar problem and it was a bad o-ring
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
Do you recommend putting the O ring on the injector itself then install it or put the O ring in the pod then put the injector in the pod?
Last edited by Flip66; 08-11-2008 at 01:55 PM.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
Rbob - Where's that pigtail typically located? That would have come in handy a while back.
Travis - Which is the right way? I recently rebuilt my TBI and didn't have any problems. But without disassembling it again, I can't say for certain exactly how I assembled the injectors in the pods.
Travis - Which is the right way? I recently rebuilt my TBI and didn't have any problems. But without disassembling it again, I can't say for certain exactly how I assembled the injectors in the pods.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
Rbob - Where's that pigtail typically located? That would have come in handy a while back.
Travis - Which is the right way? I recently rebuilt my TBI and didn't have any problems. But without disassembling it again, I can't say for certain exactly how I assembled the injectors in the pods.
Travis - Which is the right way? I recently rebuilt my TBI and didn't have any problems. But without disassembling it again, I can't say for certain exactly how I assembled the injectors in the pods.
Last edited by Travis odell; 08-13-2008 at 12:05 AM.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
RBob.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
Would any type of lubrication of the O rings be advised prior to installation ?
Do the O rings fit into O ring slots within the pod body ?
Would it be advised to place the O rings in place within the pod body then lower the injectors into them ?
Do the O rings fit into O ring slots within the pod body ?
Would it be advised to place the O rings in place within the pod body then lower the injectors into them ?
Last edited by CamaroRider; 08-13-2008 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Additional data request
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
just from messing with it last night the first O ring was bad I though maybe I put it wrong so I tried putting the O ring in the pod first. Let me tell you it is not the way to do it will tear it nearly every time you try to force in the injector put the O ring on the injector first if the O ring is good you will be fine.
Last edited by Flip66; 08-13-2008 at 11:09 PM.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
RBob.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
I thought I would post my experience with installing new O rings for my TBI fuel injectors. There are TWO injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they were also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they were also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
Last edited by CamaroRider; 09-02-2008 at 08:22 AM.
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
I thought I would post my experience with installing new O rings for my TBI fuel injectors. There are TWO injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they was also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they was also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
#14
Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
FuelInjectorConnection.com had precisely the correct rings and filters for my injectors. They are in the great state of Georgia.
My 2 injectors are: GM5235279*RPD
My vehicle is a 1989 Camaro 305 FI Vin E (TBI)
My 2 injectors are: GM5235279*RPD
My vehicle is a 1989 Camaro 305 FI Vin E (TBI)
#15
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Re: Leaking Injector Pod?
I thought I would post my experience with installing new O rings for my TBI fuel injectors. There are TWO injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they were also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
I received new O rings this past Saturday. They were made of VITON.
I very lightly lubricated the O rings with motor oil.
Again with motor oil I very lightly lubricated the lower curved lip of the fuel injector, the lower sidewalls and the upper sidewalls.
I placed the lower O ring into the lower section of the injector bowl and made SURE it was laying flat.
I placed the metal ring and the large upper O ring into the upper section of the injector bowl and made SURE they were also laying flat.
I then placed the new filter on the lower section of the injector. There is a beveled surface on the sidewall of the filter that should point down.
I lowered the injector into the injector bowl making SURE it was allowing the protruding alignment 'pin' to fit in the 'cutaway' inside the injector bowl where the pin MUST eventually reside. The cutaways are different in each of the two bowls: One in the front of the injector bowl and the other in the rear of the injector bowl. As I lowered the injector I moved it very slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise so that when the bottom of the injector curved edge met the lower O ring, the injector would center in the O ring and the lower O ring would transition up and around the lower portion of the injector. I then applied moderate pressure straight down and the injector slid into position with a slight 'plop' feel (it 'seated').
I had NO damage to the new O rings.
My attempts to place the O rings on the injector first, then lower the injector did NOT work for me. I had damaged the original O rings experimenting earlier in the week and I could tell when inserting it did not 'feel right'. That is when I switched to the above method and the above method worked the first time and it just had a 'right feel' about it. Others will probably disagree with the method I used but the alternative just was NOT working for me.
I am CONVINCED (through hands on experience) that the use of a very light coating of oil on all of these parts is one of the big keys to having success in this repair without damaging the O rings.
I placed 5 gallons of gasoline in the nearly empty fuel tank (I had replaced the submersed connection hose between the fuel pump motor and the metal fuel feed line inside the tank). I moved the ignition key from OFF to RUN (but did not start the engine). Then I turned the ignition key OFF and waited ten seconds. I repeated that 3 more times. This placed fuel in the fuel line all the way up to the injectors and pressurized the fuel line. I then placed the key in the CRANK position and let it fall back into the RUN position. The engine started and ran as it should. I see no fuel leaking from the injectors after the engine is shut off. The engine has been starting and running very well ever since.
I hope this helps others that have to deal with the injectors.
I too, tried to put the o rings on the injectors first, but they leaked everytime. I applied some oil and put the o rings first.
Anyone who is trying to put the injectors in : When you put on the cover, it has to be touching the gasket without much pressure, if it's not then the injectors are not sat correctly.
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