ok im getting the basic $1400.00 350 from scroggin and dickey cuz im in amarillo,tx like 3 hrs away from lubbock so anyways they clock it at 250horses whut do i need to do to bring that up to 350????


TY,
JC

 

You are getting the same engine I got from them. I can tell you what I did with it and according to Desktop Dyno it has 343 HP at 5000 RPM and makes 400-407 ft/lbs of torque from 2000-4500 RPM.
First to go were the heads (sold em on E bay), A pair of TrickFlows replaced them
Next to go was the cam, I went with a Summit cam kit with 206/214 duration @.050.
Next is to ditch that crappy stock timing chain set. I went with a Dynagear double row roller (some grinding of the top center plug boss was needed)
Push rods were Trickflow's measuring 7.900" (.100" over stock)
Summit roller tip rocker arms
SLP stainless headers
Thrush Cat back exhaust (3" pipe)
High flow Cat (single)
Reused my stock 305 TPI set up
Accel 24# injectors
K&N air filters
Accel spiral core wires
B&M flex plate
Complete rebuild of the TH700R4 (B&M super trans kit)
TCI converter
8" summit harmonic balancer
Accel Super Coil (coil in cap)

Note when replacing the heads on that engine DO NOT reuse the head bolts, they are a "torque to yield" bolt, one time use only.

The S/D 350 seems to be a good base engine to build from and at $1300 for a 4 bolt main its a steal. My local Chevy dealer wanted $2300 for that same exact engine, so I had S/D ship it to me and I still saved almost a grand.
Enjoy the build up, I did. And there is no greater joy than when you first crank it up and it actually runs

~M~

 

i plan on doing that also...ill probably switch cams then put it in...im hoping to pull about 270hp with a bigger cam, edelbrock, intake and carb...plenty for now until i can afford a good set of heads

 

You have to switch cams before you try to run it in a TPI. The cam that comes with it is a low duration with 109 LSA, not good for FI.
I just wanted a good streetable engine with more punch than the 305 had.

~M~

 

Why buy this engine when you are about to change everthing but
the block?????

 

I got the same one from www.greenwoodchevy.com for $1290. Let me tell you the cam sucks in that motor. No power past 3500 rpms. Change it while the motor is out. Comp Cams 268XE is what I'm going with. The heads are a little weak but with some porting will be a lot better. Also remember 250HP was with open headers. Get some headers and a nice cat-back, I like the Hooker cat-back, sound clip in the signature.

 

wasnt 250hp also with all the crappy stock components like a stock GM intake and qjet or TBI even

 

Cast iron intake, hei distributor and q-jet. There's nothing wrong with a q-jet when tuned properly.

 

Because a shortblock of the same kind is only $100 cheaper and I sold the heads for $200 and I'll sell the cam and valve train components too, even if I only get $50 for the lot I'll still be $150 cheaper than buying the short block

~M~

 

Still a d----b idea to buy a brand new engine and remove almost all the parts and replace them, with the CHANCE you will screw up something. There are long and short blocks out on the market with better number then these junk engines, even if you sell some of the parts to another d---b guy.

 

Can't bee too junky, they come with a 3 year 36k mile GM warrenty, no matter who puts the engine in.
Let the man do what he wants. And if you are confident and competent enough to pull your own engine and install a new one you should be confident and competent enough to build the top end, this isn't rocket science and a piece of cake compared to my regular job.

~M~

 

ONLY If you that engine stock and put and NO modifications
to it, so were is your 36 warranty.

 

Just drop it, you don't agree and won't, leave it at that.

~M~

 

Um no, a warranty is actually voided only if the part you installed is proven to be the cause.