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Ok you guys call it + problem

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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 10:24 PM
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fireloard's Avatar
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Ok you guys call it + problem

....

Last edited by fireloard; Aug 10, 2002 at 02:03 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 10:37 PM
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
test the voltage while running the engine. If the voltage jumps to around 14.5 or so. Everything is good to go as far as your starting system is concerned. if it stays at 12 volts, you have a problem. As far as that bolt, those things are pretty strong steel. They're high tensile strenth and hard as nuts so youll hafta get a drill that runs ***** to the wall and some good hardend tungston carbide drill bits. Not those junk "titanium" ones. Id say use a remover but that thing sounds like its in there good.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 10:59 PM
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From: Rochester NY USA
Car: '97 Z28
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: M6
Is the head of the bolt snapped completely off? If not, how about grinding the rest of the head away so you can slide the alternator off whats left of the bolt? Then you'll have a stud that you can work on getting out. Maybe grind a couple flat spots on it to get a grip.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 11:04 PM
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
If there is still anything that resembles a head on that bolt, clean it really well with some acetone, and jbweld a socket onto it. Let it dry for 24 hours or so, and then try to loosen it.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 11:17 PM
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basically none of the bolt left.. there was a small sliver of it.. but basically hack sawed that away before drilling and its pretty smooth over (except where the hacksaw grinded the it)... so now it has two little holes in it (those bits didn't get very far)... could it be the drill that i'm using.. using a pretty basic little hand drill.. 3/8" and 0-1200rpm it says on the side.. When it was bought i'm sure its main purpose wasn't to ever drill out a bolt... and what do carbide tips look like.. my dad got some diff tip that was gold and shorter that he said was supposed to be harder than his other bits.. but still.. it wasn't going anywhere...

Oh and I don't have anything to weld a new head on there.. nor any kind of welding skill to do it...

Last edited by fireloard; Jun 6, 2002 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
if it was one of those gold ones, then its junk. THe tungsten carbide coated ones have a dark charcoal color to them. Go to sears or any other name brand outlet and get a good set of high quality bits. Makes all the difference int eh world. As for that titanium bs... it isnt even as hard as steel. Titanium is only used because it is a good inbetween metal. Stronger than aluminum, lighter than steel. Nother thing you could do is take the whole bracket off if all else fails. Kinda a PITA but it will just leave the stud there so you have somethig to work with.
the alternator wont "slide" off as youve probably seen.

Last edited by dimented24x7; Jun 6, 2002 at 11:35 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2002 | 11:36 PM
  #7  
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
im assuming you have a serpintine setup
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Old Jun 7, 2002 | 12:40 AM
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Use a cobalt drill bit and go slowly. If you go too fast you'll work harden the bolt and make it tougher to drill. Start out with a small bit, 1/8", then go to 3/16", then 1/4" and on up to the bolt 's diameter. Starting out with a large drill bit is just going to harden the bolt.

~M~
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Old Jun 7, 2002 | 02:44 AM
  #9  
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From: N. Illinois
use a carbide drill (charcoal grey or silver) and go in steps as morley said. then get yourself a nice e-z out. just take your time and dont break anything else.
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