1. I have a carbed 305 right now. When I go to press the gas, the car wants to stall so sometimes I have to get on the gas and it will suddenly jump and go. It's died a couple of times when I simply went to accelerate from a light. Am I running too rich, too lean? A/F guage says mostly lean. Is it spark related???

2. I am building a 350 out of an 88 Iroc. Is that motor a "roller engine"? I am looking to get an aftermarket cam for it and should I go with a roller cam or a hydraulic cam?

3. Is there some sort of oil cooler bypass? Has anyone heard of it?

4. I am looking to get an MSD distributor for the new engine. Someone suggested a 6A box to go with it. What exactly does it do? I heard you can set a rev limit but what else does it do?

Thanks!

Steve

 

1. Too lean. Your carb probably needs a rebuild; i.e. take it off, take it all the way apart paying close attention to where all the adjustable parts are set, fix the leaks in the bottom of the fuel bowl that these carbs usually have, clean it up until the insides are immaculately spotless (excuse the pleonasm, I'm on about my 4th beer, so I'm dissolving), and reassemble it. It is not spark related, leave your timing alone. Novices seem to think that anything that happens that they don't understand is due to either timing or EGR; resist the temptation to fall into that trap.

2. Chances are that it is a roller motor. You should use a hydraulic roller cam, specifically one intended for a factory roller block, as opposed to what all the rest of us had been using since the 60s before the factory finally hipped up to rollers and promptly butchered the idea. Lots of us here have lots of experience with cams and what they do, tell us honestly (no monkey-spank) what you expect the motor to do, we can help you pick an appropriate one.

3. No oil cooler bypass. There is a "throttle body coolant bypass" but it doesn't apply to carbed cars.

4. Don't waste your money. It isn't necessary at the level that most of us are working at, an astounding number of people have wasted an astounding amount of money buying them, and finding it makes no difference whatsoever. Not to say it's not a good product, dry-sump oil pumps and Jesel shaft-mount rockers are good products too, but don't have a place in a street car.

What carbed 305 do you have (LG4 or L69)? What else has been done to the car? Again, lots of people here will be happy to share their experience and results with you, be more specific and everybody can tell you what works on their one of the kind of car you have.

 

you can put a regualr old oil filter adapter on, one without the cooler provision, that might be considered a by pass, or you could put plugs in the cooler fittings

 

Thanks so much for your help. Here are some answers for you questions.

1. I figured it was too lean. The only reason I would think it is my spark or timings is because I've had a horrible experience with my Accel distributor, it seems to throw itself out of timing every couple of weeks. I just bought my carb not too long ago and it was supposed to be slightly used, like once.

2. I was told to go with a hydraulic cam as well. My friend has an 85 Z28???? and he just put a cam in that, which has an RPM range of like 2700 and up, so when he gets on the gas at that RPM range, it really kicks in an pins you to the seat. I want something from the lower RPM range (out of the hole) to as high as can get it, lol, I basically want the whole power band, is that too much to ask???? lol!

3. Yeah I wasn't sure what he meant about the oil cooler bypass, I'll have to ask him to explain in greater detail.

4. Yeah I don't think I want to drop $200 on that stupid box either. I still have school to pay for!

I believe I have the "LG4 *****" because I have an H in my vin. I have put a Holley 600 cfm carb on it, an Edelbrock Performer intake, I have a 100 shot of nitrous, I rebuilt the trans and put a shift kit in, and that's really about all the major stuff. Hope that helps. I should make a sig, lol.

Steve