Found my engine but can I use it?
Found my engine but can I use it?
Well After quite a bit of talking I convinced my dad to let me use a 350 we had in the garage.
It is out of my mom's 96 tahoe.It is a factory roller motor.It has vortec heads on it.We pulled it out because it was using like 2 gallons of coolant a day.I am not sure if the heads are crack or what.
I pulled the pan off to find that it is a 2 bolt main block.Next I am going to disassemble it and have the machine work done.If the block checks out fine,But the heads don't can I use heads off a 327?I know they will bolt up but are the water jackets going to be different because this is a newer motor.Also why does all the rebuild kits go up to 93.But not newer?Can I use just a regular 350 rebuild kit?
I have a lot of questions but I guess I will take this one step at a time.
It is out of my mom's 96 tahoe.It is a factory roller motor.It has vortec heads on it.We pulled it out because it was using like 2 gallons of coolant a day.I am not sure if the heads are crack or what.
I pulled the pan off to find that it is a 2 bolt main block.Next I am going to disassemble it and have the machine work done.If the block checks out fine,But the heads don't can I use heads off a 327?I know they will bolt up but are the water jackets going to be different because this is a newer motor.Also why does all the rebuild kits go up to 93.But not newer?Can I use just a regular 350 rebuild kit?
I have a lot of questions but I guess I will take this one step at a time.
the 327 heads would have accessory holes in them, but they would work other than that. if it's a SBC like any other i don't know the differance in rebuild kits, all i can think of is reverse flow on the water pump. i'm sure there isn't any problem finding parts for it, most kits aren't really kits anyway, they just pull the parts off a shelf and put them in a big box and call it a kit for a set price.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,238
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Vortec heads and a roller cam style 350 is exactly what most people want for a good stout engine. You are fortunate to have one!
If the heads and block are OK, and there are no cracks causing the coolant leak, then it would be easiest to have a good shop rebuild it for you with a more aggressive cam, etc., for your Camaro.
If the heads and block are OK, and there are no cracks causing the coolant leak, then it would be easiest to have a good shop rebuild it for you with a more aggressive cam, etc., for your Camaro.
I plan on building it myself.I built the motor in my truck.(Another 350 bored .030,had crank ground .010)It runs strong as ever.I just wish I had put a better cam and ported the heads and got a bigger throttle body while I had it apart.Money was the issue there though.
One thing is though.The timing cover is plastic.And it has a hole for the crank trigger.My dad said that a regular timing cover won't work.The only thing wanting me to use this motor is the fact that it a roller motor.But whenever I rebuild it I will have to get new lifters and stuff anyway.I am thinking go buy a older model 350 and using the vortec heads on it.It is still up in the Air.I am taking the block to the machine shop next week.I am little tight on money right now.
One thing is though.The timing cover is plastic.And it has a hole for the crank trigger.My dad said that a regular timing cover won't work.The only thing wanting me to use this motor is the fact that it a roller motor.But whenever I rebuild it I will have to get new lifters and stuff anyway.I am thinking go buy a older model 350 and using the vortec heads on it.It is still up in the Air.I am taking the block to the machine shop next week.I am little tight on money right now.
Well I pulled the motor apart and found the rod bearings where shot and the wrist pins where fairly stubborn to.I didn't even think to check the main bearings.
It looks to me like the reason U have to use the plastic timing cover is because on the crank there is some kind of crank trigger part.It sticks out farther than the cam chain gear does.I have an older 350 crank in the garage so I sat that in place and it looks like a regular timing cover would work.BUT the crank is for a 2 piece rear main seal block.And the one piece rear seal adapter.(I guess that is what it is called)Won't fit over the end of the crank and even if it did the journal would be way to small.I wish there was some way to get around this timing cover thing.
Other than that the block looks the same.The fuel pump boss is there but it block off.So I would have to use an electric fuel pump but that is no big deal.The piston skirts are different than the older 350 one's I had.These are shorter than the older one's.
It looks to me like the reason U have to use the plastic timing cover is because on the crank there is some kind of crank trigger part.It sticks out farther than the cam chain gear does.I have an older 350 crank in the garage so I sat that in place and it looks like a regular timing cover would work.BUT the crank is for a 2 piece rear main seal block.And the one piece rear seal adapter.(I guess that is what it is called)Won't fit over the end of the crank and even if it did the journal would be way to small.I wish there was some way to get around this timing cover thing.
Other than that the block looks the same.The fuel pump boss is there but it block off.So I would have to use an electric fuel pump but that is no big deal.The piston skirts are different than the older 350 one's I had.These are shorter than the older one's.
Well good news.I found a 4 bolt main 350 block,crank and rods for 35 bucks.It is already mine.The kid is at work.So I can't them tonight.
I went to the boneyard and there was a 89 formula 350 there.It was tbi injected 350.Brand new motor for 400 bucks.Very tempting but right now I think I would be better off building my own the way I want it.
The car was a T-Top car the top was about 6 inches higher than the hood.IT was smashed.It did have a disk brake rearened though.I was wondering what code to look for.My car has 2.73's right now and anything would be better than that.So what code does a 3.73 rear have?
Thanks for any info.
I went to the boneyard and there was a 89 formula 350 there.It was tbi injected 350.Brand new motor for 400 bucks.Very tempting but right now I think I would be better off building my own the way I want it.
The car was a T-Top car the top was about 6 inches higher than the hood.IT was smashed.It did have a disk brake rearened though.I was wondering what code to look for.My car has 2.73's right now and anything would be better than that.So what code does a 3.73 rear have?
Thanks for any info.
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Originally posted by 86budgetSC
I went to the boneyard and there was a 89 formula 350 there.It was tbi injected 350.Brand new motor for 400 bucks.Very tempting but right now I think I would be better off building my own the way I want it.
The car was a T-Top car the top was about 6 inches higher than the hood.IT was smashed.It did have a disk brake rearened though.I was wondering what code to look for.My car has 2.73's right now and anything would be better than that.So what code does a 3.73 rear have?
Thanks for any info.
I went to the boneyard and there was a 89 formula 350 there.It was tbi injected 350.Brand new motor for 400 bucks.Very tempting but right now I think I would be better off building my own the way I want it.
The car was a T-Top car the top was about 6 inches higher than the hood.IT was smashed.It did have a disk brake rearened though.I was wondering what code to look for.My car has 2.73's right now and anything would be better than that.So what code does a 3.73 rear have?
Thanks for any info.
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