Hello all, this is my first post on these boards so I am not quite sure where to put this. I kinda know the basic procedure for replacing the fuel pump for a 1990 3.1 L RS. I was wondering if some of you could give me some hints and tricks on how to do it. Also if I need any other tools besides a couple of jacks and a wrench set to do it. I have a copy of the chiltons manual for the car just don't have it with me, so I am not sure exactly what kind of information it contains in it.

 

Follow it step by step and have a friend when you drop and twist the tank. Its not as hard as some people say. I saved $400 doing it myself

 

First, welcome! I hope you'll get as much help and enjoyment out of these message boards as I have. (As a word to the wise, don't mention white tail lights or putting Z28 badges on an RS, though. They get a little bent about that! HA!HA!)

I did the fuel pump removal/installation TWICE this past summer. So, maybe I can give you some helpful advice. I have a 92 305tbi RS. My fuel pump is in the tank, as I'm pretty sure yours is. As an initial step, You'll have to disconnect the exhaust hangers (that attach your pipes to the frame) at the rear of the car. Dropping the tank is fairly straight forward. There are a couple of bolts holding the restraining straps. The pump is removed through the top of the tank. My best advice, though, is to remove the springs from the car before you try to get the tank out. The first time I did this, I left the rear end attached, and I spent several hours under the car trying to finess the tank out, around the rear end. But, the second time, I raised the back of the car up fairly high, removed the springs and shocks to let the rear end drop down farther, and I had a MUCH easier time getting the tank out. Actually, when you unbolt the shocks where they attach to the rear end, the springs will fall out. They're not bolted in or anything. But, BE CAREFUL. Keep a floor jack under the axle housing when you take the shocks loose so you can slowly let the pressure off of the springs as you lower the axle housing. When you get the rear end down low enough (I also suggest you take off the rear wheels so the rear end can drop farther), the tank will come out "fairly" easily (considering the oblong hole you have to manuever the filler neck through to get the tank down. When you put in the new pump, be careful to get the float linkage in the right place so your fuel gauge will work properly. There is a plastic anti-slosh shield in the tank that it is easy to hang the float arm on (and thus, my having to do this procedure TWICE!). Best of Luck!

 

Thank you, doesn't sound quite as hard now hehe I hope we have enough jacks to do this. Currently I think we have 2 jacks. Do you know about how much room you need to just let the rear axle hang down?

 

I raised my car so that the bottom lip of the rear bumper facia was about 2.5 to 3 feet off the ground, with jack stands under the main body tub in front of the rear wheels (on the reinforcing members under the floorpan). This will give you unhindered access to the rear end and tank area. I suggest you use two sets of jack stands, one on each side to hold the weight of the car, and one right next to each of those as a backup (in case one fails). Alternatively, consider sliding the wheels under the car, or something like them, just in case the car drops for any reason. Safety First! Hopefully, you can pull the exhuast pipes far enough to one side to get room to work. The first time I did this, I cut my exhaust near where it passes over the rear end. But, if you drop the rear end, you should be able to just move it over to one side.