I have an 84 Z28, L69 that I've done some slight modifications to, bolt on stuff mostly.

Now I find myself getting a little carried away and seriously considering going overboard with my car (I was ready to get a big block.....and then caught myself., which by the way is my favorite vehicle, one that I will more than likely keep indefinitely.

Now if I can improve on any of the goals without compromising another that would be great.

My original goals were and still are:

1. 0 to 60 mph in well under 6 seconds, the closer to 5 the better.
2. 1/4 mile times in mid to low 13's.
3. Handling! The car has got to handle superbly!
4. Run AC, all accessories and be a reliable daily driver.

So what is my best way to go about this. Finish out the 305 with some good head work, go with a 350 with similar set up or go with a 383?

In my 305 I have a Comp Cams XE262, roller tip rockers, weiand action plus intake, Edelcrap 600 carb (will be changed), Jacobs Pro Street igntion, that's about it for performance upgrades. I'll be running SLP headers and 2 1/2" duals in the very near future.

So should I build up a 350, keep the 305 and finish it, or go with a 383. Money is a concern, but since I'm in no rush, more money just means it will take more time.

 

We're going to need to know things like budget, and your position on the never-ending 305 vs. 350 debate.

I don't really know which to pick, as all your goals can be completed by any of the options. Just a matter of "how" and "how much."

 

I don't get caught up in 305 vs. 350. While a 350 can make more power, it doesn't always. Fastest car I've ever ridden in has a 305 in it.

I think that starting from scratch it is wise to start with a 350 opposed to a 305, but if you've already got a 305 that is decent ( like mine) then depends on a couple of factors like budget, time, experience and ultimate goals.

Budget is a fluid thing you know. I cannot afford a 10K crate motor and it would take too long for me to save up "mad money" to slap one in there. Say, for starters I have $3,000.00 to spend in the near future. I don't have $3,000 to blow on a hobby right now, but I give myself and allowance.

 

I would go with a 350, they're easy to get into 13s and won't bust the bank which will leave you cash to upgrade suspension.

 

Right off the bat i'll tell you stop putting anymore money into that 305 if you want to run low 13's. I can also tell you that you're budget is very unrealistic considering where you are trying to go. You can build up a very decent 350 with $3000 but unfortunately thats not the only thing you need to worry yourself with. You already mentioned exhaust, which can run you $600 (more so if you want slp headers) for headers, pipes, and mufflers. Speaking of headers, unless you're trying to keep this car 100% smog legal, which it won't be, don't get slp headers. There are much better headers out there that'll cost you a lot less. Your stock drivetrain will need work as well. Whether you have a T5 or a 700r4, neither tranny will last very long handling that kind of power. You will also need to get some better gears and probably a stall converter. And then there's your suspension. It should probably be serviced anyway since its old and worn out and since you wanted good handling. Suspension (along with brakes) parts are the biggest rip off out there and depending on what parts you decide on (there's more to it than shocks and struts), you can easily dump over $1000 into it. I'm not trying to flame, i'm just giving some advice. I'd look at your budget and what you want to do and make the necessary compromises......

 

$3,000 for the engine, sorry. I've already got the pipes (2 1/2" duals with an H pipe), all I need are headers and maybe swap out the mufflers.

Are you basing your statements on SLP on actual tests or what? I would get the SLP's w/o the AIR system, dual cat Y pipe. They are stainless steal, from what I understand do NOT need coating, and come with a Y pipe. So for $400.00 I can get 1 3/4" headers (If I decided to move up to a 350 or 383 - 1 5/8" if I stick with the 305)and I haven't seen anything get close to that. I mean, Edelcrap TES, smaller, terrible Q/C and NOT coated, $370.00.

Hooker Super Comp, long tubes, about $400, not coated, no Y pipe, and less ground clearance. Hooker S/C shorties, 1 5/8", not coated, $350.00. Hedman Elite maybe cheaper, even after you get a Y pipe b/c they are already coated.

Dynomax, I won't even go there. Hedman Hedders, 16 gauge metal. For shorties 1 5/8" no coating, Y pipe that is 2 1/2" diameter, $250.00 total. Coating is about another $200.00. I'm not trying to flame here either, but WHAT BETTER, CHEAPER HEADERS? I've looked and looked and looked and looked and looked and looked and looked .............. get the point? When it boils down to it, spending a little more money upfront will save you money in the long run, as is often the case.

As far as drive train goes, it'll be a repair as need be. I just rebuilt the T 5, and I know of some people running a lot more juice through theirs than I will be! Rear end is 3.73 posi, but still the weak 10 bolt. Suspension will be taken care of as well.

Although, I think I'd be close with my 305, after doing some head work and adding the headers.

Bottom line, this won't be a track car. I mean, if my zero to sixty times are there and I'm in the high 13's I'm happy, at least for now, but we all know how this works. MORE MORE MORE!


Redfirebird, one last thing, nice car. I looked at your sig. sweet!