braking in new motor
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Joined: May 2002
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From: concord New Hampshire
Car: 87 iroc and 88 k2500 tbi truck
Engine: l98 and lo5
Transmission: 700 r4's babby
braking in new motor
i know that on a flat tappet cam you have to fast idle it for the first 20 min then change the oil then after that drive it nice for about 500 miles. but what after that is it all set. can i run it hard after that how about spinning it up to 6K on the track how do i brake my motor in the right way so it will last. and don't any one dare say give it hell soon as it fires.
i load a new engine and run it between 1500 and 4000 or so heat and cool it a time or two, change oil after 500 miles and again at 3000. switch to synthetic oil at 3000 miles, after 500 i'd run it how ever i wanted to run it and not worry about it anymore. actually if i were racing i'd do what i wanted after the first 30 minutes
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Joined: May 2002
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From: concord New Hampshire
Car: 87 iroc and 88 k2500 tbi truck
Engine: l98 and lo5
Transmission: 700 r4's babby
see that is what i have allways done be nice for 500 then i would drive it like i normaly do with mobile in the case after 500
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From: Weedsport, NY
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: Bolt-on/cam 305
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt Posi
Definatly heat cycle it a few times, and always very the rpm some when breaking it in. Some like load helps build cylinder pressure, which helps seat the rings, or so I've heard. I wouldn't go pounding on it, but a few medium throttle bursts after a few 20 min heat cycles would probably be a good idea. There is an intersting artcile on breaking in motors, I can look it up if your interested.
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Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 569
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From: concord New Hampshire
Car: 87 iroc and 88 k2500 tbi truck
Engine: l98 and lo5
Transmission: 700 r4's babby
that would be very nice of you i want this thing to last longer thatn my normal 50-60,000
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From: Weedsport, NY
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: Bolt-on/cam 305
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt Posi
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This is the link I was talking about. This method he is talking about it pretty contreversal, it almost seems like a bad idea in some ways. But read the whole article, it really does make sense. I would try it if I was breaking in a new motor. Also, keeping a motor alive past 50k miles isn't so much the break in, but how you treat it. Don't hammer it when its cold. Change the oil regularly. Don't go to 6500rpm on a stock SBC cause it sounds cool! If you take care of your car, it'll take care of you.
This is the link I was talking about. This method he is talking about it pretty contreversal, it almost seems like a bad idea in some ways. But read the whole article, it really does make sense. I would try it if I was breaking in a new motor. Also, keeping a motor alive past 50k miles isn't so much the break in, but how you treat it. Don't hammer it when its cold. Change the oil regularly. Don't go to 6500rpm on a stock SBC cause it sounds cool! If you take care of your car, it'll take care of you.
I have been told my more than one engine builder that once the cam is broken in (if you even need to worry about that) to take the car out once it is warmed up and take it right to red line and then back off and go closed throttle down a hill... then turn around and do it again, take it up to red line, bring it down..... bringing it up to red line under load hammers the rings into the cylinder walls and when you back off it sucks a little oil up onto the walls. Almost all new piston rings require the builder to finish hone the bores, so the rings are VIRTUALY broken in before you even start it for the first time.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Weedsport, NY
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: Bolt-on/cam 305
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt Posi
Yeah, thats kind of the idea there in that article. Makes sense. Just got to have it warmed up and heat cycled a few times.
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