My car is suffering from detonation problems under load and high rpm. It is much worse when the air temps are warmer. As a possible fix I decided to change the EGR. 1987 IROC 5.7 TPI.
The parts store has two egr valves listed for this car. I was told that they need the numbers from the original to match them up.
No problem.
I am wondering however, what is the difference?
Is it possible that having the wrong EGR valve is causing this? Also, is there anyway to tell which one is supposed to be on the car other than matching the numbers from the one on the car?


------------------
Jay
My Car web site
1987 IROC - 5.7 16.43 @ 82 mph ( yeah that bites )
1986 S10 pickup w/1993 Vortec 4.3

 

Do yourself a favor here, get an AC Delco EGR to replace your old one with. I used to sell these things, and the aftermarket ones BITE. Many of them come with washers to restrict the orifice, and they are nice enough not to tell you which one to use, you match it to your old one.
Not usually in favor of factory stuff, but in this case I wouldnt use anything else.

 

go to local chev dealer with your vin number ..they will tell you the egr valve that the car came with much better than guessing !
thats how i got the correct one for my car !

 

I just got mine last week from the dealer. $80 some bucks.

 

If you are going to replace the EGR valve, use ACDelco. YOu may be creating more problems than you already have by using something else.

What all have you done to try and solve the pinging problem?

------------------
"I used to have a handle on life, but then I used it as a plunger and broke it" -The Wave

ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am-K&N,Cold air induction, SSM SFC, Flowmaster, 16" GTA rims.
'97 Bonneville SSE
About Me

 

IF,

I know I'm sounding like a recording, but I'd vote for the genuine AC/Delco EGR as well.

The aftermarket "fits-all" EGRs just don't work with the system as well. I've installed a few of these on "plain-Jane" cars without problems, but running higher performance means that everything should be just right, not just adequate. If you don't mind continual error codes and potentially lower performance, save a few buck on the EGR. You can get a "universal" EGR for about $45.00 and keep running those 16's forever. For $80.00 you can get the right valve and forget about it.

Later,
Vader

------------------
"Make Me Bad"

 

Ok, I will be stopping at the Chevy dealer on the way home from work tomorrow, and getting the AC/Delco EGR. Thanks for the advice.

GMtech - I have just started looking into the pinging problem. The timing was off a few degrees but is now set at 6*. I figured I would replace the EGR next. When I put the new one on, I am going to check to make sure there are no restictions in the manifold where the EGR bolts up. I am replacing the knock sensor as well, just in case.
I also plan on bringing the car to a shop that has a system that hooks into the plenum to run a cleaner through everything to get rid of any possible carbon build up.

Vader - I would much rather spend the money on doing it right rather than doing it so it "works" Unfortunately the previous owner did just enough to keep the car running, so I have a lot of little things to correct.



[This message has been edited by innocence faded (edited July 23, 2000).]

 

hey guys i just had my 87 gta 5.7 tpi trans am diagnosed at the dealer they said my egr isn't responding as well as my aftermarket O2 sensor is fluctuating values and my intake temperture sensor is reading 150 degress or something very high the guy said. but anyway back to the egr valve how can i tell if it is good or not. i am not throwing any codes and car seems to run fine. it just wont pass emissions so i am trying to fix everything i need to to get it to pass.