Well, for those who did not know i could not get my car started recently and tracked it down to a blown fuseable link to the in tank pump and a bad ignition control module. Now the car runs, but under load the car dies or sometimes dies and lets loose this horrendous backfire! I cant understand what is making this do this. I just replaced the fuel filter the 26th of august (which was the last time it ran until last night) and there is 110 leaded in the tank. I am getting 13.8 volts to the tank and i wired my in line to the igniton port in the fuse box. Please give some suggestions.
BTW, the fuel filter was called WIX, i think it is a crappy one. I am going to buy a new one and see what happens.

 

Oh yeah, forgot. Could a bad FMU be the culprit?
thanks
jim

 

You said your module went out. Probably your pickup coil went with it. $10 part if you can handle taking apart the distributor. Good way to check is to check your timing with the EST bypass plug plugged in. If the mark jumps around like crazy, most likely that pickup coil is gone. Not uncommon, but a bitch to troubleshoot!

 

thanks, where is the pickup located? i have replaced a distributor before, not hard at all. Does it matter that i have the external coil or no?

 

No, your pickup coil is separate from the ignition coil. Your pickup coil is located below the rotor, around the shaft, inside the distributor. It connects to the module (yellow and green wires I think). There are procedures on how to measure resistance to determine if it's indeed faulty.

You said you replaced the distributor? Was it new? How long ago?

Remember, this is just a simple to check to try and rule that out. I'm not guaranteeing that's your problem.

 

I just meant that i have taken it out and put in back in, i did not replace it. i know that it may not fix my problem but it is worth a shot. You said i can test it, with what an ohm meter? could you explain to me how?
thanks
jim

 

you'll have to wait until i get home from work ... i have to look it up in my manual. for now a quick check would be to check timing with the est bypass connector connected just to see if the timing mark jumps around like crazy at idle and slowly increasing revs to about 2000 rpms. if it doesn't jump and it's smooth ... chances are, it's okay, but i'll get you the ohmmeter checks when i get home tonight.