My buddy said I can check to see if I have a steel or cast crank if I look at the crank snout to see whether the forging line is either 1in wide or a small line maybe a 1/16 wide

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82 Z28
355 carb'd, Edelbrock Performer RPM package (minus heads), Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex 4" offroad y-pipe, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, '85 IROC 10 bolt rear with Richmond 4.10's & Auburn posi unit, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. Shooting for 3000lbs w/ driver.

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ICQ: 77979548

 

If the engine is in the car, you need to pull the flexplate cover off and look up at the rear of the crank.

Roate it around to the flat part of the crankshaft, you should be able to see the casting flash.

If it is on a stand then just look at the rear of the crank, you will see where it was "cast"


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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited October 01, 2000).]

 

Thanks engineboy...just checked it (it's on a stand)... cast crank oh well...what are the chances were it of actually being steel?

 

Craze,

Don't give up yet. It might be a cast steel crank or nodular iron crank. You can still use a cast crank up to 400-450 BHP, but it gets iffy at higher RPMs.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
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