I am putting my heads on my 400 and am having some bolt clearance problems. The center head bolt between the two exhaust valve spring won't go down in the recessed area because the springs are too close together. I can't get the washer or the bolt to go down. It appears that the spring shims are sticking out a little too far. These are afr 195's with the upgraded spring that can go to .600 lift.

I have read something about this on thirdgen before but can't seem to find it. I've searched this for half an hour. I am using the ARP bolts that were recommended by afr. I need to know the solution. Thanks

 

I called AFR and they said just to grind the edges of the washer flat. Also, I had to grind a little on the bolt head.

 

That would be my recommendation as well. DON'T grind the spring! Bad bad.

Clearance was tight enough with my standard-spring AFRs that I had to go to 12-point head bolts. Couldn't get a 5/8" socket past the spring on the 2 end head bolts under the valve cover to tighten them daown for the same reason- spring and shim sticking out too far to get it past.

 

Just grind some flats on the washers. I had to do it to mine when I installed the heads.

Good luck

 

ARP makes some head bolts/studs, dont remember which, that are designed for the larger then normal springs and wont have clearence issues.

 

Thanks guys for the replies. Hey ski_dwn_it...I've been checking out your buildup on your site. Awesome car man. My buildup is similar. I am using 195's and the ZZX cam on my 406. I have some 6" H-beams in it and forged flattops. I am really thinking about the Pro-Built 700R4. How do you like it? Also, are you still using the 3.07 gears?

 

Thanks 94_6speed!

Yeah the pro-built is one tough ****.

Yes I have the stock 3.07 gears in the car, and its still a handful on the strip or the street. Take a look at the one video from behind the car. It like a friggin rocket, and it feels like you head gonna go through the back window. LOL.

What intake are you going to go with? I would highly recommend the SR on that motor. It makes an unbelievable street/strip combo. More Tq than you can handle and still makes 400 RWhp, and best of all you don't have to rev it, therefore the setup will last MUCH longer than a 6500-7000 revved motor.

If you need anything just let me know. I would be happy to talk with you via email if you like. I would like to know what you are doing with you setup in detail.

Thanks, and talk to you soon!

 

Please don't grind any heat treated fastener. The effects on the metallurgy are completely unpredictable, and seldom good. The results might leave you walking, which isn't always a bad thing. It's good to get the heart rate up a little once in a while:

 

Nice video clip, Vader!!!

Hey, I'll walk with those(eyes fell to chest)... I mean those(eyes fell to chest, again)... I mean her anytime!!!

BTW, ARP makes a 12 point nut that and slightly smaller washer to fit your needs. Just call ARP and tell them what is going on. I had the same problem with my 190s...

 

Vader, I really don't like grinding on a fastener either but it wasn't much. If it was I'd definitely do something different. By the way...I love the clip!

ski_dwn_it, I probably will PM you about my stuff and ask you some questions if you don't care. Oh, the intake will be a Victor Jr. I am an old-school carb guy I guess. I have a 750 Speed Demon that I'll use.

 

ME Likey the video.

 

I told the wife the other night I need to build one of those next Vader! Holy Beans!

As for grinding the little bit that needs removed. Just do it in very little incriments, cooling it in water as you go. Keeping it from heating up too much, will not remove the temper from the steel.

If you get it red hot and hog off 1/8" at a time you will possible take some out, but I don't image you will be able to generate enough heat to cause any harm. As I think I took off about a 1/16" on each side and it slide right down in.

I have used my ARP bolts over twice now and they are working just fine.