I've got a 305 TBI and the bely squeeks very loud when it's been sitting for a few hours. It only squeeks for around 30 seconds to 3 or 4 minutes, depending on how long it's been sitting. I've got AC, but my compressor's seized and the belt is on the idler pulley I think. I'm looking for any way to either tighten my belt, or which size belt should I buy..........the AC's on the backburner, so I'll need another belt to go around the idler pulley. I'll take pics later today to try and explain. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Here's my engine now. Dirty, I know. But is the belt on the tentioner? I'm going tomorrow to get a new belt. Would I just look for one for an AC delete car?

 

I'm gonna try and put a new belt on tomorrow, so I need to know which belt to buy. And any tips on putting it on would help too. Anyone???

 

Well i would say the problem is, the belt isnt tight enough, the tensioner looks like its almost bottomed out, here is a pic of how it should be routed with a stock belt.

edit: I just read your AC compressor is seized, either find a ac compressor at the yard, or get a ac delete pulley.

 

Thanks! Is it possible that the belt is just worn and stretched out? If I got new one and put it on the idler pulley, would it make a difference? Or should I need an ac delete pulley?

 

"Thanks! Is it possible that the belt is just worn and stretched out? "

see the pulley with the spring on it (the tensioner pully) that pully should be at about 3 o'clock not 6 o'clock there for the belt is not tight.... thats a bad thing too cuz the water pump isn't getting the full power it needs.

 

Ok, so is there a way to tighten the pulley? Or should I just get a new belt? If I put a new belt on, the tentioner pulley should be at 3 o'clock? Is there a tool to tighten the pulley or something? Would that help in my case, or is the belt too stretched out? I plan on getting AC in a few months, but I'd like a tight belt until then. Which would be best? A new belt or to somehow tighten the belt that's on there now? Thanks

 

The main reason you are getting that noise, is in fact your belt is worn, but that is due to the fact that the belt is riding the wrong side of the tensioner pulley. This will wear the belt down very quickly. Go to your local wreckers and find a A/C delete pulley, and buy a new belt, and do it right.

No you cannot adjust the tesioner pulley, that is how it works...it is a spring loaded tensioner. So it forces against the belts to keep it tight. By just replacing the belt, and leaving it the way it is, you will have the same problem in no time.

 

 

How long is no time? I'll be getting AC in a few months, so if new belt routed the way it is now, will last that long, then I'd be fine with that. There aren't many junk yards around here, so there's not too many places that I can get an AC delete pulley. So how long would a new belt last, if I routed it the same way as it is now? Also, when it squeeks, the Amp guage is almost down at the yellow. But when it stops it only goes up about half way between the yellow and 13, on the guage. I nkow it's not the alternator, because I just had it replaced with a 140 Amp unit. Thanks,

 

Is just the compressor siezed or is the clutch siezed as well if the clutch still moves freely put the belt back on it.

 

I'm not sure if it's the cluth or not. The compressor will still turn, but not very freely. How much should an AC delete pulley go for at a junk yard?

 

just get the damn AC delete kit. its like $20 i think if you can find one at the bone yard you really need to get that fixed.... see in the pic where its rubbing on the top of the belt.... your goign to end up snapping that belt at high RMP's :-D

 

Actually that wear mark on the top of the belt is just from the tensioner pulley as the pulley is in fact to pieces pressed together . But either or... get the AC delete pulley and do it right the first time to avoid being stranded in the middle of no where.

 

tamatt27 Ive colored in red on your pic the routing I use. it is the same size belt you have now, and the tensioner will still be aligned where it would be if the factory routing was used . the only time I get any belt squeel is if I rev the engine to around 4500rpm very quickly in park only. even then its just a quick half second chirp out of it.

 

as long as you don't move what waht the pulley sipns on the water pump its ok i guess.... i still wouldn't do it... if you make the water pump spin the wrong way your goign to voer heat the motor and mess up the colloign system and could blow the head gasket or warp the heads.

 

Ive had my set up that way for about 4mos now.

I was very meticulious about making sure every thing rotates in the same direction as the stock routing when I came up with that route. I can honestly say its a safe belt routing to use. other wise my engine would be toast by now, were past the mid point of summer and my car has seen many 100*+ days.

 

here is a quick pic I made so you can see stock routing(left) and my routing(right). its mainly so tamatt27 can see exactly how to route his belt if he so chooses.

and sorry the pulleys are not scaled and in the precise location as real life, but I made this up real quick and it gives the general idea.

 

probably also a good idea to check the belt tension with a belt tension gauge or whatever it is after rerouting it to ensure it has proper tension. Rerouting the belt not onyl alters the ammount that the torsional spring is engaged but also changes the angles between the aproaching and receeding sides of the belt by the tensioner which can have a huge effect on the total tension in the belt, possibly causing excessive ammounts of tension which can demolish bearings.

 

that setup wouldn't work for me... LOL i have the somg pump removed :-D

 

Hey thanks! I'll try that ASAP! So which size belt should I buy? Should I just ask for a belt that would fit an AC delete car? Or should I just take my belt off and ask the guy at O'Reily's to geive me one that's the same size as my current one? Thanks

 

Just take the belt you have now and ask for one the same size.
I originaly had my belt routed the way you do now when I first deleted my A/C, but I didnt like that routing as it didnt provide enough tension. so I just went to work finding a new route that would use the same belt. the route that I posted is what I came up with.
if ya want, try the new route with the belt you have now, then you will know for sure if it will fit, or how much smaller it will need to be.
A good thing about O'reilly is they will let you take belts into there parking lot and try em out lol. at least the did me.

 

I have all my smog crap removed with the exception of the pump. I have just been to lazy to buy a new belt lol. when I do get around to removing the pump Im basicaly going to use the same route, but insted of going from the crank to the smog pump, its going to go from crank to water pump then around the tensioner pully.