Ok, I recently just tore apart my ZZ4 motor and added a CC305 cam and AFR190's

Everything is back together and she fires right up. But, after letting it run for a few minutes, I can rev it from the carb linkage, but it stalls out on me when I try to use the gas pedal. Once it stalls, I cannot restart it untill it sits for awhile

Any thoughts as to what could cause this?

 

If she runs fine for the first few minutes, but then stalls.... and you need to wait to get her started again, then it sounds like she's overheating, and this doesn't necessarily mean it's the cooling system, but it could be you're ignition as well.

How is she timed? Do you have an electric fan.... is it operating when the car is running?

 

I do have an electric fan, I have it set to come on at 180 and I also have a manual switch for it. I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC

The fan just kicked on after th car stalled

 

Start the car again, and wait for her to stall again.... then immediately check you're anti-freeze resevoir tank. Is the anti-freeze literally bubbling, and boiling over just after she stalls?

Remove you're thermostat (don't worry, it's summer time), then connect you're electric fan to run CONSTANT with the 'key-on'. If she runs cooler, and no longer wants to stall.... it's either a defective thermostat, or you're electric fan motor (or relay) is on it's way out....

I just realized you're in Florida, yeah.... it sounds like she's overheating. Again, remove you're thermostat and hook up the fan to run with the 'key-on'. If she still overheats, then it's somewhere in you're timing.... too advanced (retard it using the cap).

 

She's definitely not overheating. I just installed this new fan unit about a month ago, works great, car had barey seen any kind of temps yet, I also have a mechanical water temp gauge and I know it works right.

The coolant bottle was no where near boiling, I have done that in the past when my fan died, I knwo what that looks like

I'm thinking it's something with the accelerator cable since that has been where it died both times, but still that doesn't make sense since I can rev it form the carb and see the cable moving with it.

 

Okay... so lets focus on the accelerator cable. How is you're fast idle screw set? Once the car gets warm, and the choke opens up.... RPM decreases, and if the idle screw is set too low, she'll stall. Which will force you to wait for her to get cold again, to start her back up....

Try raising the fast idle screw a whole turn, and once she's warmed up to operating temperature.... see if she wants to stall. If she does, raise it a little bit more.

Desired RPM reading at normal temp is about 750 RPM....

 

I have the idle set at 750

OK, new jiff on it. I just went back out to start and it took some cranking now and fired up, but won't stay running but for a few seconds.

If I try to give it some gas it seems to make it worse. I do have fuel pressure adn it squirts fuel into the carb when I turn the lever

But it alsmost seems like it's not getting fuel now, maybe too much???

 

Do you have a vacuum gauge, and what kind of CARB are you running? When you re-installed the rocker arms, how did you set them.... what method did you use, and are you running hydraulic lifters?

 

I do have a vacume gauge but that does me no good unless I can get it running long enough

I'm using a Holley Street Avenger 770 ( I know, it's too big, got bad advice)
I do have hydraulic lifters and I used the #1 Zero, adjust the certain ones, 360, adjust the others.

I had my friend over here yesterday and he double checked my work, they are adjusted right, no noise while it is running

 

It honestly doesn't matter if there is no noise, as they could still be too tight..... BELIEVE ME!

Raise the idle to a very high setting (so she doesn't stall), take the valve covers off, and with the car RUNNING, re-adjust the rocker arms;

Starting from the number 1 cylinder, loosen the first rocker arm until you hear it clack (if it takes you more than ONE TURN to hear a tap, then their TOO TIGHT). Re-tighten until the tap goes away to the point where you 'barely' hear it.... then tighten 1/2 a turn. Do this for ALL of them, as this will eliminate any doubt of the hydraulic's being set too tight...

Trust me, re-set them!

 

I knwo they arent' too tight, I have done that before and you will hear a tapping noise in the exaust instead of in the valve covers.

As for adjusting them with the covers off, I knwo thats a good way to do them, but I really hate that way.

Wehn I first put the motor back together my timing was off and I got a few backfired through the carb, is it possible that I did anything form that?

P.S. I will try raising the idle to see whta thta does.
Also for the vacume, The only vacume lines I have are
Carb-distributer
carb-egr/valve cover
carb-brake booster

Maybe a bad EGR?

 

Do you mean PCV valve, or the EGR? Either way... if you suspect a vacuum leak, just plug all the vacuum lines up on the CARB, and see if this eliminates the stalling.

I doubt it tho bro....

If you had the motor apart, it could be a compression leak, intake manifold leak.... or tight valves. If you're absolutely sure it is not the above, then it's you're mixture.

Again, raise the idle enough so she doesn't stall (sure, she'll run like crap.... but you'll be able to get a reading from the vacuum gauge). Adjust you're mixture screws until you get the highest reading..... but if you can't, and the gauge 'twitches', and it's too low, then you're valves are definitely too tight!

 

OK, got her started up again, the higher idle gave me enough time to mess with it

It acted like it wanted to stall when I gave it gas, I held the choke open and it worked, le tit go, stalling, so I messed with the power wire to the auto choke and I'm guessin git didn't have a good enough connection

Now for another question, what vacume line do I hook the gauge up to or does that matter?

Also, it smokes a lot, very light white smoke, might be a hint of blue to it which woudl mean burning oil. All gaskets are new and I took my timre puttin it back together, what can I do to check that out?

 

When using the vacuum gauge, make sure you use a port on the CARB that has a constant pull.... don't use the distributor port on the CARB, as this only increases in pressure when you accelerate. Find a port that gives you the highest reading while the car is idling (remember to keep the car in reverse when you set the idle mixture..... put some bricks behind the wheels to keep her from rolling)...

If it is blue smoke, then yeah... you're burning oil. Did you install the valve seals yourself, or did they come installed from AFR?

If it's white smoke, then ani-freeze might possibly be making it's way into the combustion chamber. How did you torque you're heads, what was the final lb ft. reading?

But first things first.... set the idle mixture, then see if she still smokes.

 

the heads were freshly rebuilt before installing them by a trusted machine shop.

I I bougth new ARP head bolts and sealed them and torqued them to 40, then 52, then 65 which was the final torqe.

I do have a new problem now though, the car runs fine in park but in gear it wants to stall again. the RPM's go up slightly and then drop down below 500, any ideas on that

I swear it's just one thing after another,

Also, how do set the idle mixture? how do you know when to stop turing the screws?

 

Plug the gauge into a port on the CARB, then determine what you're reading is (don't forget to unplug the distributor, to get an accurate reading). The idea is to get the highest reading possible on the gauge.... by adjusting both/all screws
to achieve this.

You will see.... that by adjusting one screw, it will get to a point where it doesn't/won't go any higher (on the gauge), then this is where you move on to the next one. Once the gauge is at it's highest point possible.... reset you're fast idle screw back down to 750 RPM, and you're all set.

As for the surging in RPM (with a load), you'll figure this out by setting you're idle mixture.... cuz if you can't get the needle on the gauge to stay still (at any point), then you definitely have a vacuum leak, or again, the valves are too tight!

Trial and error bro!