Have no idea what this metal cannister thing is just below the #8 spark plug (all the way in the rear, passenger side. It makes it very difficult to get to the spark plug. I believe something goes into the top of it, like perhaps a vacuum line or something, but mine has nothing going into the top and I don't have a clue what hooked into it. If something needs to go into it i'd like to get it in there but I don't see anything disconnected?? The engine is an 84 Lg-4.

 

BD,

I'm guessing that you are describing the vacuum actuator for the exhaust heat riser valve. If there is no line running to it, it has been bypassed. This only means that it might take a little longer to warm your engine in cold temperatures. The nomal position for this valve is open, and the application of vacuum will close the valve, rerouting the exhaust gas through the intake and to the opposite cylinder bank exhaust ports.

If you can permanently keep the valve open without the actuator in place, you could remove it without any problems. Right now, the return spring in the actuator is keeping the valve open.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

I'll have to take another look at it when I am under the car again. I think it just has to bolts holding it on and a small tube coming out the top, no other lines coming or going from it. Thanks.

 

I think Vader is right. It sounds like what you're looking at is the vacuum motor for the heat riser valve.

The valve body has to be there, otherwise the exhaust can't hook up. However you can remove the vacuum diaphragm, and possibly even the valve itself, and still retain most the rest of its function.

What motor is this? What else has been done to it? You might have a fairly large vacum leak when the motor is cold, which will make it idle high but run terrible otherwise. Does your car do that?

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

it's an lg4 305 w/cc carb. It doesn't run like it should (150,000)miles. I don't think it has any vacuums leaks as it idles perfectly w/the timing at 8 btdc. this thing sits down low right across from the #8 plug and as far as I can tell has some type of opening right in the top. If a hose goes to it, where would the other end connect at?? That way I can see if I have two things disconnected.

 

There should be a temp vacuum switch in the water outlet; there should then be a piece of that black plastic vacuum spaghetti that goes along the inside of and then over the right valve cover about midway back, to a small piece of rubber line, to a thin metal tube that goes down the bottom edge of the VC around the back of the manifold. It's supposed to get vacuum from a small T in front of the carb, which goes to the vacuum switch, which allows vacuum through if the temp is below some preset value. That makes it do its preheat thing until the engine is warmed up.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

you hit something on the head there. That hard spaghetti line coming off the sensor in the intake is disconnected. I had posted a while back trying to figure where it goes to. Ok, getting somewhere now. The end of this hard line has a burned rubber boot on it. Where exactly does it go to? Does it go into the top of this small metal "cannister"? I imagine it burned when it popped off and layed on the exhaust manifold. Thanks.

 

let me clarify, it is still hooked into the sensor, it's the other end that is disconnected, and it has a rubber boot on the end and currently it is just laying on the passenger side engine compartment.

 

IIRC, every carbed car with that stupid EFE flapper had a metal line pick up where your plastic one is leaving off. This metal vacuum line would clip into a little clip on the lower rear VC bolt and snake around and down to the vacuum motor. This metal line was used b/c plastic would melt.
Honestly, just plug up the vacuum source for it. I have never had a functioning EFE flapper, every car i had with one had the can rotted out and nonfunctional by the timew it got to me. When i put headers on my 85 i had to reuse the valve body, but i hollowed the rest of it out and sealed the shaft hole with a bolt. It's a pointless emmisions system remove it and you'll be much happier.
...ed

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 A4 2.73 - stock, soon to be sleeper

 

Yeah Ed, that's exactly what I did on my car. I have the Edelbrock TES, which in order for it to have its CARB # supports every emissions device, including the EFE valve. So, without the valve housing, it's impossible to install the headers, since the flanges can't possibly mate up otherwise. But since I didn't want the valve failing (again) and shedding pieces of the flapper into the catalytic converter, I removed the shaft & blade and the diaphragm; tapped the shaft holes to 1/8" pipe and put plugs in them; and cut all the little projections off the valve housing so they don't hit the frame.

Anyway, in stock trim, the metal line curls around behind the exhaust manifold and down to within ¼" of the hookup on the dia[hragm. A little piece of silicone rubber hose is supposed to go there since regular rubber would turn to cinders in short order. Interestingly enough, I have yet to find a way to actually purchase that piece of silicone hose. If you want to hook it up and make it work, which isn't a bad idea for an otherwise bone stock car, you probably will have to find a good one at the boneyard. Otherwise, disconnect & plug it at its vacuum source and get rid of all the metal and plastic spaghetti.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."