my fan switch right now is in my passenger's side head, which i think is the same place it is in all thirdgens. here is my question...i have an aftermarket intake meant for a carb so it has a lot of plugged up holes. can i switch the fan switch to one of these holes in the intake? it does have coolant behind it, so i dont see why not, so i thought i would ask you guys.

what do you think?

thanks,

-brian

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1991 Camaro RS - Ultra Blue Metallic, T-Tops
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GM 350 HO Crate Engine - Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Holley 670 CFM TB, Edelbrock Water Pump, March Pulleys, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, 8.5mm Super Conductors, Cap and Rotor, Rapidfires, Hypertech Fan Switch & Chip, SLP 1 3/4" Stainless Headers, 3" Cat Back, Flowmaster 40 Series
700R4 - 2,400 Stall Converter, Vette Servo, Shift Kit, B&M Super Cooler
GM 10 Bolt -coming soon Auburn Pro Series Differential, Richmond 3.73s
Brian's 1991 RS Central NY F-Body Association
Join the Third Generation F-Body TBI Web Ring
z28boy@twcny.rr.com IM name: Z28 Boy

 

You can move it anywhere you want, but the heads are where all the heat is, this is why the temp sensor is there.

I would keep it in the heads.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

R.I.P. #3
My favorite quote about D.E. "He can see air"

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited February 24, 2001).]

 

what is the possibility of a large difference in readings between the intake and the head?

obviously the head would be a better choice, but i have limited space and the wire burnt up the first time. i have the SLP 1 3/4" headers and it just doent have the clearance that i would want. also it looks a hell of a lot better in the intake.

but, back to my original question...what are the chances that the temperature will be off by a lot. the rest of my cooling system is mostly aftermarket, and keeps the car pretty cool. also, it is a cool fan switch from hypertech, so the temperature is 20 degrees below where it should be anyways. and, i will probably be adding a manual switch as well, just to be safe.

does this sound good? i am assuming that i will be safe with all these things. again, what do you guys think?

thansk a lot,

-brian

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1991 Camaro RS - Ultra Blue Metallic, T-Tops
----------------------------------------------
GM 350 HO Crate Engine - Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Holley 670 CFM TB, Edelbrock Water Pump, March Pulleys, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, 8.5mm Super Conductors, Cap and Rotor, Rapidfires, Hypertech Fan Switch & Chip, SLP 1 3/4" Stainless Headers, 3" Cat Back, Flowmaster 40 Series
700R4 - 2,400 Stall Converter, Vette Servo, Shift Kit, B&M Super Cooler
GM 10 Bolt -coming soon Auburn Pro Series Differential, Richmond 3.73s
Brian's 1991 RS Central NY F-Body Association
Join the Third Generation F-Body TBI Web Ring
z28boy@twcny.rr.com IM name: Z28 Boy

 

With a cooler switch you should be OK.

There isn't much difference between the heads and intake temp, you just normally want the temp switch in the highest temp location, no big deal.

Move it to the intake and see what happens. If it runs hotter, put it back.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

R.I.P. #3
My favorite quote about D.E. "He can see air"

 

Z28,

Do you mean like this?



The switch works just fine for me in the "manifold" location.

 

You can put it anywhere as long as its in a coolant passage, but I reccomend putting it somewhere close to the thermostat, since hot cooolant from the heads is there. If you put it somewhere in "cooler" coolant (wow thats a mouthful) it will take a little bit longer to come on.

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1983 Pontiac Firebird SE
LG4-Based Chevy 400
700R4 Tansmission
Modified 4 Barrel Q-Jet Carb
Accel Super Stock 8mm Wires
Edelbrock Pro-Flo Air Cleaner
3.23 Posi Rear
14X7" Cragar SS/T Wheels
Clarion 45X4 CD/AM/FM Head Unit
100WX2 Amp
2 Pioneer 12" Subs in Custom Box
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is only half an engine"

 

actually, the place that i want to put it is like an inch and a half away from the thermostat, so it looks like it might work out.

-brian

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1991 Camaro RS - Ultra Blue Metallic, T-Tops
----------------------------------------------
GM 350 HO Crate Engine - Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Holley 670 CFM TB, Edelbrock Water Pump, March Pulleys, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, 8.5mm Super Conductors, Cap and Rotor, Rapidfires, Hypertech Fan Switch & Chip, SLP 1 3/4" Stainless Headers, 3" Cat Back, Flowmaster 40 Series
700R4 - 2,400 Stall Converter, Vette Servo, Shift Kit, B&M Super Cooler
GM 10 Bolt -coming soon Auburn Pro Series Differential, Richmond 3.73s
Brian's 1991 RS Central NY F-Body Association
Join the Third Generation F-Body TBI Web Ring
z28boy@twcny.rr.com IM name: Z28 Boy

 

I have a performer intake and used on of the 1/2NPT holes just to the drivers side of the thermostat. I looked through the parts catalog at NAPA and found a late '80's Mopar truck fan switch that worked from 195-205'.
It works perfectly with my 180' 'stat.

 

Or get an AutoMeter switch that operates from 187°F to 195°F. That oneis $21.00 from most parts stores and has ½ NPT male threads.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Back from the dead!

Does anybody know the part number for either the Mopar unit or Autometer listed above?

Is this the Autometer? http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/produ...5&dept_id=1252

 

go to the parts store, get a thermostat housing with a couple holes in it. they have them just tell them you need a thermo housing with a sensor fittin. or look through the catalog. if no luck ill send you mine... dont need it any more and its new..

 

buttroq,

I thought about that, but wasn't crazy how they look. I ended up going with a Dakota Digital dual fan controller. It has an optional 1/2" npt temperature sensor. And you can set up each fan individually to turn on and off at any temperature. Should be fun once I get it installed.