need help with an 89' 2.8 fire chicken
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Car: 84' crossfire vette tuned by mmt racing, 73' custom show opel gt, various others as well as my 89' fire chicken
Engine: alot of them
Transmission: alot more
need help with an 89' 2.8 fire chicken
Hey guys, I'm new to the site and own an 89' firebird with the 60 degree 2.8 v6 with the mpi. I was driving the car one day, and she sputtered a few times on the freeway, and died, and hasn't ran since. mechanically, the engine is sound, and is getting fuel. I've pulled the engine apart to make sure. Now, I found that I'm not getting any spark. now, The check engine light is on, and I have figured 2 things from common knowledge. it could be one of these, the crank trigger, knock sensor, or what I was told an "ignition control module"? (what ever the hell that is. C.I.D.?) I really need help hear, and was wondering if you guys could help me with this, I gotta get it running. Also, I need to know how to read the ecu's codes, or if anyone has software, I'd appreciate it.by the way, engine cranks, oil pressures good, compression, fuses, and valve train timing is good. -Colt
Nitro,
Welcome Aboard!
Getting the codes can be a really tricky feat on most older GM cars, requiring specific hardware and all the power of 3-4 brain cells working in uninson.
This might help:
First, you'll need to acquire a GM OBD I ECM Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval Tool (commonly known as a paper clip to TGO members). Form this wire into a ‘U' shape.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on some models, and on the left on others, depending on the make and year. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim, or at least was when the car was delivered.

Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:

WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open/print the file.
Welcome Aboard!
Getting the codes can be a really tricky feat on most older GM cars, requiring specific hardware and all the power of 3-4 brain cells working in uninson.
This might help:
First, you'll need to acquire a GM OBD I ECM Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval Tool (commonly known as a paper clip to TGO members). Form this wire into a ‘U' shape.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on some models, and on the left on others, depending on the make and year. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim, or at least was when the car was delivered.

Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:

WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open/print the file.
Last edited by Vader; Mar 31, 2018 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Updated links
Getting the error codes might be very helpful in diagnosing your problem. Regarding your apparent lack of spark and the Ignition Control Module, the GM HEI system uses a primary switching module to control the coil, commonly called the "HEI" module. It is located in the distributor, under the rotor. It recieves a signal from the pickup coil array, also in the distributor and under the rotor. The moudules are relatively easy to access, and can be tested at most autoparts stores, usually for free.
You need to make sure the pickup coil is providing a signal, and that the distributor and HEI module are getting power. As you open the distributor cap, inspect the cap and rotor for wear and damage.
You can disregard the possibility of a bad detonation sensor (knock sensor) since the ECM completely ignores the KS input until the engine is running at 500 RPM or more.
You need to make sure the pickup coil is providing a signal, and that the distributor and HEI module are getting power. As you open the distributor cap, inspect the cap and rotor for wear and damage.
You can disregard the possibility of a bad detonation sensor (knock sensor) since the ECM completely ignores the KS input until the engine is running at 500 RPM or more.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Car: 84' crossfire vette tuned by mmt racing, 73' custom show opel gt, various others as well as my 89' fire chicken
Engine: alot of them
Transmission: alot more
I love you guys already.
No-one has been so damn helpful. and now, I'm going to test my codes with my ultra high-tech odb "0" paperclip.
I worship you.:hail:
No-one has been so damn helpful. and now, I'm going to test my codes with my ultra high-tech odb "0" paperclip.
I worship you.:hail: Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Car: 84' crossfire vette tuned by mmt racing, 73' custom show opel gt, various others as well as my 89' fire chicken
Engine: alot of them
Transmission: alot more
ok guys, I got a code 12, that repeated itself over and over again. What is the next thing I need to do here? -Colt
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Car: 84' crossfire vette tuned by mmt racing, 73' custom show opel gt, various others as well as my 89' fire chicken
Engine: alot of them
Transmission: alot more
alright, I pulled the flat,black, unit out from under the distributor rotor that has 3 connectors on it. the numbers on it are 039 2d08. making sure here that this is the part. is it??? and when I connected port a to port b to read the codes, the fan came on. is that normal?? and where is the pickup coil? -Colt
Last edited by Nitrovamp; Apr 10, 2004 at 05:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: seattle
Car: 84' crossfire vette tuned by mmt racing, 73' custom show opel gt, various others as well as my 89' fire chicken
Engine: alot of them
Transmission: alot more
upon removal of the distributor, I found that all the teeth of the "star wheel" are rusted up, as well as the adacent ones, and the top end. I refurbished them, and I noticed the little coil that the wires go to is corroded, and all the insulation on it is chipping and falling off. this is the "pickup coil" right?
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