What to do when the car hits 100,000.
What to do when the car hits 100,000.
I've been told that, when the car hits 100,000 miles, I should get it rebuilt (since I may adding a power booster of some sort in the future). However, I've heard others say that I don't need to rebuild it, just overhaul it.
What do both these terms mean, what are the differences between the two, and how will my car benefit from each?
Thanks!
Jason
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1989 Trans Am GTA: 350 TPI, N10 Dual Exhaust
Mods: K&N, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, 3.5" intermediate pipe, twin Dynomax Super converters, Dunlop Sport 4000 tires.
All of us have potential...few ever realize it.
What do both these terms mean, what are the differences between the two, and how will my car benefit from each?
Thanks!

Jason
------------------
1989 Trans Am GTA: 350 TPI, N10 Dual Exhaust
Mods: K&N, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, 3.5" intermediate pipe, twin Dynomax Super converters, Dunlop Sport 4000 tires.
All of us have potential...few ever realize it.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 1
From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
If you are gonna add a power adder, you'd probably want to do the rebuild. If the engine fails it may take more than a piston or two along the way. Maybe the entire block, crank, etc.
However if it runs good and you are not gonna pressurize it, keep running it and congratulate yourself! Mine is heading for 200,000, body wise. Driveline has been updated.
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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake
1 5/8" Headers
Semi-Siamesed Runners
MSD6AL/AdjFPR/IROC frnt@rear swaybar/wonderbar/steeringbox/alum drvshaft/ Alston SFC/3:23posi disc rear/MAC LCA/H.Adams Panhard Rod/KYB struts/ shocks/
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!
However if it runs good and you are not gonna pressurize it, keep running it and congratulate yourself! Mine is heading for 200,000, body wise. Driveline has been updated.
------------------
Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake
1 5/8" Headers
Semi-Siamesed Runners
MSD6AL/AdjFPR/IROC frnt@rear swaybar/wonderbar/steeringbox/alum drvshaft/ Alston SFC/3:23posi disc rear/MAC LCA/H.Adams Panhard Rod/KYB struts/ shocks/
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!
GTA,
Do you also plan to get your hips replaced when you hit 60, just because?
Not to be a smart A$$ (or dumb A$$ - I've been accused of both), but you need to consider the condition of the vehicle before deciding whether to perform any major repairs. If you have performed regular maintenance, your engine may not be in a state that requires any service.
I recently built a 350 that had 110,000 miles, but was well maintained (regular synthetic oil changes, service scedule followed) and I was amazed at the lack of wear. The worst bore wear was still within the factory production tolerances - not the service tolerance, the production tolerance. The bearing shells were basically polished, and not even scuffed. This was after 110,000 miles, some of them hard miles, on Mobil 1 and AC oil filters. Your's might not be too much different.
On the other hand, if it has been neglected you may have had a candidate for rebuild 30,000 miles ago. If you have gone 10,000 miles on plain oil, forgotten about the cooling system and fuel system maintenance, use the engine hard before it is warmed thoroughly, and otherwise abused it, you may have some significant wear.
You need to assess the situation before arriving at any general conclusions. I would think that on a low wear engine you could be wasting your money and accomplishing nothing by a build.
Do some analysis, like a compression or leakdown test and oil analysis. Perform the regular maintenance for that mileage, like oil. filter, transmission, differential, cooling system, fuel filter, O2 replacement, ignition service, timing check, belts, hoses, vacuum lines, EGR test, etc. What you will discover while performing these services should tell you something about the condition of the vehicle. With that knowledge, you should be able to make a better decision.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Do you also plan to get your hips replaced when you hit 60, just because?
Not to be a smart A$$ (or dumb A$$ - I've been accused of both), but you need to consider the condition of the vehicle before deciding whether to perform any major repairs. If you have performed regular maintenance, your engine may not be in a state that requires any service.
I recently built a 350 that had 110,000 miles, but was well maintained (regular synthetic oil changes, service scedule followed) and I was amazed at the lack of wear. The worst bore wear was still within the factory production tolerances - not the service tolerance, the production tolerance. The bearing shells were basically polished, and not even scuffed. This was after 110,000 miles, some of them hard miles, on Mobil 1 and AC oil filters. Your's might not be too much different.
On the other hand, if it has been neglected you may have had a candidate for rebuild 30,000 miles ago. If you have gone 10,000 miles on plain oil, forgotten about the cooling system and fuel system maintenance, use the engine hard before it is warmed thoroughly, and otherwise abused it, you may have some significant wear.
You need to assess the situation before arriving at any general conclusions. I would think that on a low wear engine you could be wasting your money and accomplishing nothing by a build.
Do some analysis, like a compression or leakdown test and oil analysis. Perform the regular maintenance for that mileage, like oil. filter, transmission, differential, cooling system, fuel filter, O2 replacement, ignition service, timing check, belts, hoses, vacuum lines, EGR test, etc. What you will discover while performing these services should tell you something about the condition of the vehicle. With that knowledge, you should be able to make a better decision.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,187
Likes: 0
From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Well, personally, I tell the wife I need to start building another engine for when 'that one' dies (none of them had died). I've gotten away with a 454 and two 383 builds this way. Just because one of them made it to 176,000 before I was done with the build means nothing. They needed to be replaced!! Really! I'm not kidding...
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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."
-Thomas Jefferson
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"Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason, than that of blind-folded fear."
-Thomas Jefferson
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 3
From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
I have over 200,000 miles on my engine and it still runs strong - only the cam has been changed. 
Pete
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Pete's Place
HiOutput Tech Page
83 SC
originally a V6...now
206+k mile LG4/5-speed
14.935@94.14

Pete
------------------
Pete's Place
HiOutput Tech Page
83 SC
originally a V6...now
206+k mile LG4/5-speed
14.935@94.14
I have over 225,000 mi on my original LB9 TPI motor. I still get 17+ MPG city driving here in southern california (read: LA). My biggest problems are that most of the gasket have that much mileage and that my oil pressure is not as stellar as it used to be, it's around 30 PSI when cruising at 2200 RPM.
James
James
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I've got 215,000 on my 2.8 ... altho it's down on power, it's still running strong. If you haven't done a major tuneup lately, 100k miles is a good excuse to do one!
Of course; I'm on my 3rd transmission!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Of course; I'm on my 3rd transmission!

------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Red Bud, Illinois
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4 2400 ACT Stall
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner 9-Bolt
I agree with TomP. I got my car with 168K on the engine. I did not tuneup the engine, and it was neglected (by the previous owner). Well, heh, my car was 4,000, and now has a tag of 14,000... well okay maybe the 14,000 is an exaggeration but you get the idea.
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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
[This message has been edited by branz28 (edited May 21, 2001).]
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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
[This message has been edited by branz28 (edited May 21, 2001).]
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