I set the valve lash using the easy method (#1 TDC; I:1-2-5-7, E:1-3-4-8... #6 TDC; I:3-4-6-8, E:2-5-6-7) and turned them 1/2 turn... when I did this, the valve opened slightly (I could see light through the port, via the spark plug hole. I just did 1/8 to 1/4 turn on them, and I hope that's good enough. The engine is from an 88 GTA, and I'm using the mods listed in sig.

If you guys are going 1/2 turn and even more, why can't I even get 1/4 turn?

 

But here's a nice glory picture

 

Probably because what you're thinking is "zero lash", is actually, the lifter plunger smashed all the way to the bottom of its travel.

This whole "tighten until you can't turn the push rod" business is the source of the confusion. A better description might be, to rattle the push rod up and down between the rocker and the lifter; tighten until it doesn't rattle vertically any more (which is "zero lash") and then add your ½ or ¼ turn or whatever.

And doing them all at 2 points in the engine's rotation, is guaranteed to produce a screw-up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=283992

 

I just finger tightened the polylocs (is that what they're called?) and then went one half turn and I could see the light through the port. I don't know, maybe I'm just an idiot, but I had this identical problem last year when I did lash on my 305.

 

should u be doing this in the truck of a car normally you do cylinder 1 intake turn cam 10degrees do exhaust get tdc for 3 intake 10 dgrees exhasut for all 8 cylinders

 

 

i meant trunk
make sure that the piston is on tdc when you do this not just whenever you want the piston up

 

Unfortunately, if the lifters aren't full of oil, it's quite easy to bottom them out with your fingers on a Poly-Lock.

There's really no substitute for doing it right, which is making sure each cam lobe is on its base circle when you adjust its raocker, and somehow observing specifically for VERTICAL PLAY IN THE PUSH ROD; not some level of tightness in turning it, or how hard the nut is to turn, or any of that.

 

Set the rocker ar m adjustment with the engine running. That is the only way to do it if you want the car to run worth a damn.

 

Why? I've never set my lash (done it twice) with the engine running, and mine runs just fine.

I just do it the same way RB described - turn the nut untill all the 'slack' in the pushrod is gone, and it can't move around loosely anymore, and then add the 1/4-1/2 turn. Done. Works just fine for me.

 

Ok I think I may have adjusted mine wrong. I adjusted the rods until I could not spin them in my fingers any more and then went 1/2 turn , I understand now that it should be when the rod will not move up and down any more. So can I adjust the lash now that I have assembled see pic below. how can I do this ? is it possible or do I have to install and adjust running. I don't wan to take apart and I don't want to adjust while running if you look at pic you will see why. any help guys?

 

I did mine exactly like that and it runs smooth. And you dont need anything off but your valve covers to set lash.
My dealer manual says you need to loosen all the rocker arm nuts to let the springs decompress if your working on a allready used engine. Yours bein just put together you shouldent need to worry about that. As far as I know the mothod we used is correct and its what all the manuals say to do. I did it with the engine off and did the TDC do 8 valves go 360* back to TDC then do the other 8 valves.

-Michael

Oh btw id keep your oil pressure sending unit and the elbow it is hooked to off untill your engine is in. Just about snapped one of those things off when the engine swung back.
Good Luck I like your paint job.

 

oh that would have been nice to snap that off as i try to put in motor. That whould have snapped and then I would have snapped. Thanks for the input and hiensight.