Okay, I finally diagnosed my engine, its 100% the lifters that went bad (wont go into detail as to why..this isnt what the thread is about) anyways, Since I have spare cash I figured I would buy myself a new intake manifold. Now im extremley currious because I know of the rpm air gap and I want to know if its worth the extra 70 bucks.

So what intake should I get? I plan on doing major mods down the road *heads cam etc* so yeah, is the rpm air gap worth the more money?

 

The Air Gap being worth the extra deniro... it depends what you build really.

 

eh I ended up just getting the performer rpm,

 

argh, anyone know who makes a qjet>performer adapter? I didnt find one on summit, I figured i'd save the 65 dollars and just get the regular performer rpm intake and not the qjet one >.<

 

Summit G1401
Edelbrock 2692
Holly 17-6
Weiand 9006
Moroso 64960

 

Thank you so much, youre my savior haha.

 

I wrote this a while ago, sometime last summer. It's one of a few "chapters" in my basic guide to mods.




Intake Manifolds

There is no doubt that the proper intake manifold is just as necessary as a free flowing exhaust to create nominal power, but with so many choices it may be hard to choose the right one. While reading Chevy High Performance I picked up quite a lot of information on characteristics of intake manifolds.
Well if you hadn't realized, there are two main types of manifolds available to you: single plane and dual plane. Their names mean just that- a single plane has one main chamber for air to be (such as the plenum on TPI cars) and a dual plane is split into two for cylinders 1-4-6-7 and 8-3-5-2. Why does this matter, and what's in it for you? Well before you decide on what you need, you should determine what type of motor you are building. Are you looking for a high revver, or a low-end grunt worker?

Here are some characteristics of manifolds explained: A single plane intake has nearly equal runner lengths, and the air is all sucked from the same location. This is great for mid-to-high RPM power, but has a weaker low-end torque. For a light car with proper gears, along with an engine designed for power in high RPMs, a single-plane manifold will fit you best. If you're looking at an engine with better low-end torque or a broader powerband, you may want to consider a dual-plane manifold. As I mentioned, the manifold is split into two "planes" which feed half of the cylinders each. This provides a quicker throttle response and low-to-mid range torque as compared to a single-plane. However, at higher RPMs, a dual-plane manifold will produce an airflow constraint because only one side of the carbeurator or throttle body is filling that particular side of the manifold. To remedy this, a lot of manufacturers are now using an old hot-rodder's trick of knocking down part of the divider wall. One example of this is on the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold, the one I currently use in my ride.

The length of the runner is very important to the engines performance. The longer the runner, the more available to be sucked down into the combustion chamber than with a shorter runner. This ensures that the piston doesn't all of a sudden reach a vacuum and stop filling itself with air and fuel. A longer runner creates more momentum for filling the cylinder. Likewise, a longer runner will also provide a little bit slower throttle response as a consequence of momentum.

As well as runner length and plenum chamber size, port size and velocity play a big role in making power and torque. If the port is too large, the incoming air slows down at lower engine speeds, producing a weaker throttle response. If the port is too small, there simply may not be enough air going into the cylinder, especially at higher RPMs. You should choose a manifold that suits your needs depending on your transmission, gear ratios, vehicle weight, cam shaft, and ideal application. If you want to build an all-out racecar, yet you drive it to work every day, you may be dissapointed with your results. Your best bet is to sit down and determine what you'll be using this engine for, and then choose your manifold after you know what cam you'll be using.

 

Wait! Aperion (or anyone else...) does this mean that the Performer RPM Air gap, not available in q-jet form, can be used with a q-jet with an adapter plate????

Of course I imagine this would require a taller hood...?

 

Sure, why not? You could put a 4500 on a 2bbl intake if you had the right adapter.

 

sweet token, thanks for that. I allways knew that runner sizes and shapes affect the way how the engine performs but I never knew why. I allways figured air is air regardless. That explained a lot. My car is just going to be a street driven daily driver and I want to try to make it as fast as I can for as little of money as I can since I suck and havent had a job in like 2 months (just got hired in at autozone ) but yeah, I plan on eventually getting a new cam, heads, and even a new carb, so this intake will be perfect to suit my needs.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

I just bought that right before posting this. My car SHOULD be up and running hopefully by monday (well whenever I get my lifters and that plate) Token, once I get her running we have to chill one day and see who can smoke more mustangs in one night

thanks guys

without this message board I would be lost haha *i know, i suck*

 

I have a new problem, I cant find the right bracket for my cables to connect to the carb. Has anyone ever delt with putting a qjet on a performer rpm intake? What bracket is needed, im really confused by this.

 

You'll have to modify the stock bracket, or fabricate one, or try to find a universal bracket that will work.

 

yeah this sucks, they need to make it a standard type deal.

Ill have to modify it someway somehow.

thanks for the input though