Electric Water Pumps
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 659
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
Electric Water Pumps
Is this a realistic mod for a street car? I autocross, and the car gets close to overheating after a couple of laps. Thinking an electric WP could help keep cool in the staging lane.
I run a LB9 w/ alternator, P/S and A.I.R, So I might have to move some stuff, possibly go to a 140 amp Alt.
So, Worth it, or Too Much Trouble?
I run a LB9 w/ alternator, P/S and A.I.R, So I might have to move some stuff, possibly go to a 140 amp Alt.
So, Worth it, or Too Much Trouble?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Electric water pumps are generally not designed for continuous duty as required for street use. Besides the power to run it is not free and would just load down the alternator. More water flow won't nessessarily cool more. the water has to move thru the rad and motor at a specific speed to remove the heat. If your car won't stay cool in competition, consider getting a better rad, better fan, or better coolant.
There is a coolant treatment called Water Wetter that may help. (Reduces surface tension of the water allowing it to *wet*
the waterjackets better to pick up more heat.)
Try running straight water. It actually cools better than antifreeze. But not in the winter.
A lot of race teams run an engine oil cooler. This will remove a lot of heat that would otherwise not be able to remove. Your oil and bearing will love it.
[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]
There is a coolant treatment called Water Wetter that may help. (Reduces surface tension of the water allowing it to *wet*
the waterjackets better to pick up more heat.)
Try running straight water. It actually cools better than antifreeze. But not in the winter.
A lot of race teams run an engine oil cooler. This will remove a lot of heat that would otherwise not be able to remove. Your oil and bearing will love it.[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
You could also try running a higher octane fuel when you are racing. Silent detonation and or preignition is a common cause of engine overheating. Try reducing the amount of ignition advance a few degrees. As a motor is run full throttle for a while, the combustion chambers heat up and become more effecient. Therefore they need less timing for max power. Your air/fuel mixture during competition may be a little too lean. A slightly richer mixture will run cooler and at worst cost you 2 or 3 HP. Factory full throttle jetting is nitoriously lean for best power. On a Q-jet try running a richer secondary metering rod. or higher hanger. For EFI, try increasing the fuel pressure a little. Cooler spark plugs will help too. Hope this helps 
[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]
i wouldn't run an eletric WP on the street or in auto crossing. as far as i know all eletric WPs are for racing only. my moroso pump requires several hundred dollars worth of brackets and pullies to make the alternator bolt up and work.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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