Tech / General Engine Is your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

Electric Water Pumps

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 3, 2001 | 01:44 AM
  #1  
SpeedCat86's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Custom TH700R4
Electric Water Pumps

Is this a realistic mod for a street car? I autocross, and the car gets close to overheating after a couple of laps. Thinking an electric WP could help keep cool in the staging lane.

I run a LB9 w/ alternator, P/S and A.I.R, So I might have to move some stuff, possibly go to a 140 amp Alt.

So, Worth it, or Too Much Trouble?
Reply
Old Nov 3, 2001 | 04:16 AM
  #2  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Electric water pumps are generally not designed for continuous duty as required for street use. Besides the power to run it is not free and would just load down the alternator. More water flow won't nessessarily cool more. the water has to move thru the rad and motor at a specific speed to remove the heat. If your car won't stay cool in competition, consider getting a better rad, better fan, or better coolant.
There is a coolant treatment called Water Wetter that may help. (Reduces surface tension of the water allowing it to *wet*
the waterjackets better to pick up more heat.)
Try running straight water. It actually cools better than antifreeze. But not in the winter. A lot of race teams run an engine oil cooler. This will remove a lot of heat that would otherwise not be able to remove. Your oil and bearing will love it.

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]
Reply
Old Nov 3, 2001 | 04:54 AM
  #3  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
You could also try running a higher octane fuel when you are racing. Silent detonation and or preignition is a common cause of engine overheating. Try reducing the amount of ignition advance a few degrees. As a motor is run full throttle for a while, the combustion chambers heat up and become more effecient. Therefore they need less timing for max power. Your air/fuel mixture during competition may be a little too lean. A slightly richer mixture will run cooler and at worst cost you 2 or 3 HP. Factory full throttle jetting is nitoriously lean for best power. On a Q-jet try running a richer secondary metering rod. or higher hanger. For EFI, try increasing the fuel pressure a little. Cooler spark plugs will help too. Hope this helps

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 03, 2001).]
Reply
Old Nov 3, 2001 | 07:07 AM
  #4  
ede's Avatar
ede
TGO Supporter
 
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,811
Likes: 1
From: Jackson County
i wouldn't run an eletric WP on the street or in auto crossing. as far as i know all eletric WPs are for racing only. my moroso pump requires several hundred dollars worth of brackets and pullies to make the alternator bolt up and work.

------------------
ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
evilstuie
Tech / General Engine
22
Jan 9, 2020 08:29 PM
Chuck84TA
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
10
Jul 15, 2016 09:05 PM
Bubbajones_ya
TBI
2
Aug 28, 2015 02:17 AM
1985chevydude
Engine Swap
1
Aug 22, 2015 05:36 AM
Dialed_In
Firebirds for Sale
2
Aug 20, 2015 01:45 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:54 AM.