Ok, suddenly out of no where my car won't start. About a month ago the same thing happened, so I replaced the starter thinking the solenoid was messed up. Basically when I turn the key, a huge draw eats the volts down to about 8.5 or 9. After replacing the starter the car did it again after starting fine 4 times in a row. But then my battery tested bad so I got it replaced even though it seemed fine when driving. After all that I went through the wiring and found my ignition wire, that I wired in to bypass the VATS system because it went bad about a year ago, was melted all the way through. It ended up getting pinched under the distributor cap causing a short. So I replaced that and I've been driving it for about 3 weeks with no problems whatsoever. And all a sudden this morning same crap.


Any idea's? I'm limited on tools and stuff because I just moved to Kansas City and don't have a local mechanic either.

 

So, what is it doing THIS time? Is it still dropping voltage, barely cranking? Or is it not cranking at all? Or is it cranking but not firing?

Throw us a bone here...

 

No crank when key turned. Big voltage drop when key turned, but not even clicking.

 

Cable connection at the battery, or the starter post, or the block

 

Well since this thread is already open I might as well ask as I search. I disconnected my battery this weekend, POS only while I was doing some work, I reconnected the battery and I have to click the ignition sometimes 30 times before it will start. I get no click, the temp gauge goes all the way up and the battery is good, I checked the wires, and checked the statrer connection all good any idea

 

If the ignition wire shorted to ground it should have blown a fuse to keep it from burning up the wire, unless it was wired to a hot-at-all-times source which can damage the ignition module over time.

The VATS system disables the starter, and the injectors, so I don't think you accomplished anything with that bypass.
You may want to put that back the way it was, and find the root cause of the no start.

I see you have a carb so I'm not sure if VATS disables the Dizzy instead of injectors, in any case the dizzy power is not connected to the starter enable relay.
Do a search for the proper way to bypass the VATS, with that eliminated it shouldn't take much to find the problem.

Keep us posted, if you still need help, we're here.

 

Redbird won't start either! I pulled into the drive and parked it on Saturday, then on Wednesday, nothing. Battery has a full charge and I have removed, cleaned, and replaced the terminals! What's next?

 

I keep having the same problem, but it's sporadic. When I turn the key, the voltage drops, to almost nothing, and I don't get any kind of click or anything. If I disconnect the battery for a minute or so, then hook it back up, the car starts fine.

I hate having to reset my clock all the time. I never had a problem before this weekend, and I didn't make any changes to the car during that time.

 

Flex the battery cables at both ends, if it's stiff within the first 3 inches compared to the mid point, there's corrosion underneath the sheath.
Usaully the starter end doesn't suffer from corrosion, but it would hurt to check.

Measure the resistance from the post to the terminal, if it's more than zero ohms, the cable is corroded. Repeat the test at the starter.

Check the fusible links at the starter, be sure to flex the wires.