I finally got the carb set and now the most difficult part. Can I set the timing w/o a timing guage tab on the motor?(for whatever reason it is gone) I set it until I heard a little pinging and then backed it off until the pinging stopped .There is still a slight hesitation so do I advance or retard the timing?

 

If you backed down the timing 2* each time untill the pinging stoped, I'd say you've got it as long as it starts good.
I would look at the advance rate in your dist. assuming that by having a carb. you also have a dist. that's not comp. controlled. If you do, you might want to look at the accelerator pump shot. You need to look a the accelerator pump arm and see if it has holes that you can move the linkage to that is closer to the fulcrum point. That will give you a faster, larger shot of fuel when you hit the peddle.
It sounds like your going a little lean when you first step on the gas and an additional fuel from the accelerator may cure that. If it helps but doesn't cure the hesitation or you can't move the linkage to another hole, you might need larger accelerator squirt nozzels. I've even streched the holes out with a torch tip cleaning tool because I'm cheap! and it worked.

 

Thanks for the input ,I will try it. I only get to work on it in my off time and that isn't very often.

 

My VECI says to unplug the 4 wire plug from the distributor to set base timing . When I did that, the car wouldn't run when I plugged it back in. When I get the car so it runs plugged in it won't run when I unplug it. It says curb idle 650 rpm ,is that with the dist plugged in or unplugged? I don't have a clue where timing is at right nowIf the car turns over hard and clunks when trying to start do I retard or advance the timing?Car in gear,foot on brake ,mild accelerator pressure makes clatter noise and no power.Help ? or am I to far gone?

 

My book say's do not disconnect the 4 wire connector to the distributor. You have to disconnect the single wire connector found in the black harness towards the rear of the passenger side of the valve cover. It could be in the harness on the firewall too. It is a tan wire with a black stripe and the connector looks like an in-line fuse holder.
Once you get it disconnected, it puts the EST system in bypass mode and your engine should still run so you can set timing. After you get that set (around 4*-6*) re-connect the wire and take it for a drive. Turning your dist. counter clockwise adv. your timing.
clockwise retards it.
I think you might have read the label wrong, if you disconnected the 4 wire connector to the dist. how would it get voltage to operate? I can't understad how you could get it to run with it disconnected.

 

I went out again and read the label"to set base timing disconnect the four-wire connector from the distributor".The car dies when I disconnect it initially and as I retard the timing it runs better but then when I plug it back in it dies and I have to advance the timing. I did get it to run at the same setting but it really clattered under load.

 

From your post, it sounds like your disconnecting/ connecting while the engine is running. Is this true? You are useing a timing light, Right?
#1. Disconnect while the engine is off. Then start the engine and set timing. tighten dist. shut engine off and then re-connect.
#2. If your trying to set it by ear, you might get lucky but I doubt it. You can be 8-10* off with just a flick of the wrist. to much retard and there goes the milage. To much adv. and here comes the damage!

I just scrolled back to your orig. post and forgot you didn't have the timing tab on your timing chain cover. A little trick I used once might help. I had a tab broke off once and I noticed that there was a spot on the timing cover where the tab was tack welded. after looking at other timing covers I found some where one weld and they where welded right where the 0* timing mark was on the tab. Some had two welds and half way between the two welds on either corner off the tab was 0* on the tab. So it's a mater of finding the spots on the timing cover and making a mark on the cover with a piece of chalk.

 

Are you sure the timing marks are gone? I had a hell of a time finding mine because they were buried under 22 years of grime. The marks are strait down from the 12 o'clock position behind the water pump. I got some carb cleaner with a straw on it and was able to blast off the dirt to be able to read the marks.

 

You were absolutely right! I did find it and all is right with the world for the moment. Thanks