EAGLE 383 rotating assembly
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
EAGLE 383 rotating assembly
for about a grand in Summit Racing
it's cast- how far would you trust a cast 383?
it's cast- how far would you trust a cast 383?
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
i seen those kits go for 450hp on motor in cars.. i think thats as high as i would go. i think cast cranks are usually fine for power, it just the rods and pistons that may fail.. so if you have strong rods and pistons, a cast crank should make lots of power
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Its a cast crank but not cast iron. It is made of some higher grade alloy. So it is much stronger than a stock cast crank.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
cast alloy crank, forged I beams and hyper pistons?
Should be good to 450HP or more.
I figure the crank is worth ~$300, I beams $250, and pistons $200, if you bought them all seperate. So I'd hope their premium parts for that price, or you're getting more then just those parts.
balanced together?
Should be good to 450HP or more.
I figure the crank is worth ~$300, I beams $250, and pistons $200, if you bought them all seperate. So I'd hope their premium parts for that price, or you're getting more then just those parts.
balanced together?
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by Sonix
cast alloy crank, forged I beams and hyper pistons?
Should be good to 450HP or more.
I figure the crank is worth ~$300, I beams $250, and pistons $200, if you bought them all seperate. So I'd hope their premium parts for that price, or you're getting more then just those parts.
balanced together?
Should be good to 450HP or more.
I figure the crank is worth ~$300, I beams $250, and pistons $200, if you bought them all seperate. So I'd hope their premium parts for that price, or you're getting more then just those parts.
balanced together?
i bought all my parts separately.
crank $500 used(2 drag runs)
foged rods $250 new
Hyper Pistons $75 shipped(later upgraded to forged but they were $75 shipped)
Balancing $125 at the machine shop.
eagle is overpriced IMO...
My crank is also forged and nitrided....
balancing is cheap enough!
crank $500 used(2 drag runs)
foged rods $250 new
Hyper Pistons $75 shipped(later upgraded to forged but they were $75 shipped)
Balancing $125 at the machine shop.
eagle is overpriced IMO...
My crank is also forged and nitrided....
balancing is cheap enough!
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by 12SecondTA
i bought all my parts separately.
crank $500 used(2 drag runs)
foged rods $250 new
Hyper Pistons $75 shipped(later upgraded to forged but they were $75 shipped)
Balancing $125 at the machine shop.
eagle is overpriced IMO...
My crank is also forged and nitrided....
balancing is cheap enough!
crank $500 used(2 drag runs)
foged rods $250 new
Hyper Pistons $75 shipped(later upgraded to forged but they were $75 shipped)
Balancing $125 at the machine shop.
eagle is overpriced IMO...
My crank is also forged and nitrided....
balancing is cheap enough!
What's more important? Forged pistons or rods? Crank is last from what I understand...
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I can't remember my total bill, but I can tell you it cost me $90 in heavy metal to have my kit internally balanced. I used TRW forged pistons, speedomotive 4340 forged rods (i beams), and eagle 4340 forged 400 externally balanced crank. It was still actually cheaper for me to buy the 400 crank, pay the $100 to have it cut to 350 mains and internally balanced at the time over buying one right from Jegs. Back then the prices were $600+ for the 383 4340 ESP cranks.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally Posted by Token
Forged pistons or rods?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
look into ohio crankshaft, their stuff is a really good deal. I think they can balance some stuff for you before sending it to you also.
remember, *cheap* forged pistons (ie truck stuff, or just any cheap brand forged pistons) are heavier, which is a bad thing, and if it means they have to use heavy metal when balancing, it's more $$$.
my machinist told me it was $300 to balance, if no heavy metal was needed. So I didn't.
remember, *cheap* forged pistons (ie truck stuff, or just any cheap brand forged pistons) are heavier, which is a bad thing, and if it means they have to use heavy metal when balancing, it's more $$$.
my machinist told me it was $300 to balance, if no heavy metal was needed. So I didn't.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally Posted by Sonix
*cheap* forged pistons (ie truck stuff, or just any cheap brand forged pistons) are heavier, which is a bad thing, and if it means they have to use heavy metal when balancing
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From: Ohio
Car: 1985 IrocZ
Engine: Carbed 383
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
If you are going to spend $1000 on a non forged bottom end you may want to look into the Engine kits from Doug Herbert. I went with the 383 pro -street kit. Scat nitrided 4340 forged crank, wiseco forged pistons, 4340 forged "I" beam rods, plasma-Moly rings and clevite77 bearings. For $1359 it seems to be a very strong kit. The extra $359 is good insurance and will give you piece of mind knowing you have a forged bottom end. IMO eagle is overpriced
Last edited by 1badrocZ; Apr 13, 2006 at 10:48 AM.
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Posts: 206
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From: Sparks, Nevada
Car: 1991 B4C, 1992 RS
Engine: 355, 305
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73, ?
the eagle kit also comes with a balancer, flexplate,rings and bearings for that price not too bad of a deal. i was considering gettin one for my T/A
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
What do you want to do with the motor? How much compression are you going to run? If you're building a street/strip n/a pump gas motor with not a ton of compression you don't need to spend the money on forged pistons. Hypereutectics are just fine.
For what they are, Eagle kits and parts in general are priced very fair. They hold up very well.
For what they are, Eagle kits and parts in general are priced very fair. They hold up very well.
My crank had already been balanced once before, i didn't get cheap forged pistons, for this reason, my 6.2in rod's were also a bit heavier. No heavymetal was needed for balancing if you do it all correctly.
as the saying goes
"cheap prices come to those who wait"
my engine swap parts pile started a year or more ago. EBAY IS YOUR FRIEND!!!!!!!!!!!!
I got my set of moly rings for $40.
Only the externally balanced kits come with flexplate and balancer.
86+ one piece rear main seals are externally balanced on the rear side.
383 kits come with flywheel and flexplate
85 and below dont however, notice the price difference!
as the saying goes
"cheap prices come to those who wait"
my engine swap parts pile started a year or more ago. EBAY IS YOUR FRIEND!!!!!!!!!!!!
I got my set of moly rings for $40.
Only the externally balanced kits come with flexplate and balancer.
86+ one piece rear main seals are externally balanced on the rear side.
383 kits come with flywheel and flexplate
85 and below dont however, notice the price difference!
Last edited by 12SecondTA; Apr 14, 2006 at 10:16 PM.
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by 12SecondTA
.
as the saying goes
"cheap prices come to those who wait"
my engine swap parts pile started a year or more ago. EBAY IS YOUR FRIEND!!!!!!!!!!!!
as the saying goes
"cheap prices come to those who wait"
my engine swap parts pile started a year or more ago. EBAY IS YOUR FRIEND!!!!!!!!!!!!
And you get what you pay for.
Seems like everyone wants to save a buck, but when the car makes no power and runs 14's they want to blame it on the parts.
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I run an Eagle Cast 383 Crank, Eagle H beams and Hyper pistons. been to 6700 a few times on the dyno with no problems and also put down some good numbers. Its how the engine is built and balanced that can also effect reliability.
Originally Posted by Dialed_In
And you get what you pay for.
Seems like everyone wants to save a buck, but when the car makes no power and runs 14's they want to blame it on the parts.
Seems like everyone wants to save a buck, but when the car makes no power and runs 14's they want to blame it on the parts.
take a wild guess what brand parts i have also.... you wont believe it, they were all boxed... except the crank, 2 drag runs...
----------
i'll give ya a hint, speed pro powerfoged pistons, Eagle "esp" h beams, crank was something like a sledgehammer or something, most expensive item i bought...
all were great deals i couldn't pass up.
Last edited by 12SecondTA; Apr 14, 2006 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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