Is there any special things i need to do to replace spark plugs on my 305 82 TA, like remove a wheel or anything like that.

 

you are just bored right!

 

If it's like a Camaro,you won't need to. Only issue is reaching the plugs in the back,which requires you to go underneath the car. One thing though, I had to remove my driver side header to get to the #6 spark plug.

As far as tools go, my tool kit had a socket just for spark plugs, wouldn't hurt to pick up one as it makes it easier.

 

I've got all of mine from the top before on stock F bodies using a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a 3/4 hex head and to turn the socket I uses a 3/4 shorty openend.

 

I had to go under the car to get the #7 plug out, very very easy from under there though.

Stupid ****ing air tubes.

 

On my Trans Am, I've always been able to get at all the plugs from the top... before and after the header install.

 

Thanks , i changed plugs on my brothers seconf generation TA and i had to remove the right front wheel to get to a plug.
I was just wanting tips so i could dive right in and know what has to be done to get them all.
I don't have headers so maybe i can get them from above or under for the 7 plug.

 

If you have skinny girl arms you will be able to get the #7 from above. I scratched my arm up pretty bad on the brake booster trying to shove my arms down there enough to get at it, and im not even fat!

Its super duper easy to get it from the bottom though, and i have stock manifolds.

 

I TRIED to change all the plugs today but could only get 5 before i gave up.

I got 1,2,3,4 from the top and #7 from below.

I didn't have a short extension only a swivel and that was a pain.
I don't see any way to get a wrench on the socket at all because all the plugs are way back and the heat shields block most of the plug from view.
And yes the stupid air tubes from the exhaust are in the way big time.

I think with a short extension i can get one or two more plugs out but i'm not sure, I had to use the brail system for all of them so far.
I was afraid this was going to be hard.Thats why i asked for tips.
There has to be a better way than this to change them.

And no I aint bored and doing this for something to do,lol.

I have this starting problem and i'm hoping this solves it.

 

LMAO that sounds bad.

 

c'mon man don't laugh at me, i'm serious.

It's a royal pain trying to figure out how to replace the remaining plugs, it's not as easy as it sounds.

I need any more advice/help i can get.

 

One word:

PATIENCE

They're really not that bad, if you just reserve about 2 hours, and don't expect to go in there and slam-dunk them. They're all easy enough to get to except that you can't turn them very much at a time.

Have every possible variety of socket, wrench, ratchet, extension, etc. you can possibly have. Different plugs will require different setups. I keep a box wrench with a BIG offset at the end, some REAL SHORT box wrenches, a plug socket whith the hex on the end that I can put a wrench onto, extensions from 1" to 12", deep-well ½" drive socket and ratchet, and so on, all handy; and use a different setup for most every plug. I find it helpful to put silicone dielectric grease on the threads, and then when I go to take them out next time, I can just break them loose with whatever tool and then spin them out with my fingers, or a socket slipped over them twisted by hand.

I can get to all of mine from above (straight plug heads, SLP 1¾" headers with AIR, all AIR and A/C installed and operating) without too much trouble. #6 & #8 are easier from below if the starter happens to be out though.

After you've done yours once or twice, you'll find that it speeds up considerably.

 

Use a double wobble socket and a long extension, takes about 30 minutes to change them all, from the top. With the right tool, its not hard at all.

I would bet money that spark plugs will have nothing to do with a reoccuring startup problem.

#1 most unneccessarily replaced part of all times.

Good luck

 

Thanks , that helps me alot.

I'll keep trying with some new tools.

My starting problem is weird and i can't figure out why it 's happing.
Please see my other post, "starting problem,HELP. "

 

I got all my drivers side plugs out with just a normal ratchet and a normal spark plug socket..

On the passenger side i used a prybar to bend the smaller sized AIR Tubes out of the way, this freed up ALOT of room, i could easily get my hand back down there all the way to #8, after i was done i bent the AIR tubes back. Easy as pie.

Drivers side number 5 IMO was the hardest.

Imagine doing a plug change on a 4th gen LT1/LS1. ouch.

 

I was afraid to bend the air tubes any for fear of breaking them, i will give all the suggestions a try and get back with you all.
I would love to do away with the air tubes but i'm not sure how that will effect the computer controls and a god way to cap them without exhaust leaks.
any ideas on that too.

 

Don't bend or remove anything. If you can't get a double wobble plug socket, get a single woble socket and add a wobble. Use ball wobbles, not those universal joint looking models. With that configuration you can get almost a 90 degree bend. Add a long enough extension to get your ratchet up to where you can operate it (I have a three footer I use) and wham, bam thank you ma'am, you are done.

 

Bending those tubes is not going to hurt anything, they are steel just like brake lines.

 

Of course you don't have to bend them, so why do it and take the chance.

 

Heres a tool i made to make it easier to change sparkplugs if your using hedders.
I took a 17mm wrench and then i took a 16mm socket, i cut the socket so it was only about 15mm high and then i welded the socket on to the wrench. Now i dont have to raise the car to change these hard to get sparkplugs, i can do them all from the top.

Here are some pictures:

 

Sweet !
nice job on the wrench.

I don't have headers so would that work for me.
I might have to have one made like that just in case i need it.

I'll try the wobble extensions trick for now when i can find a local place that sells them cheap.
I'll check out autozone or advance auto.

The only reason I thought of removing the air tubes was because they are a pain to work around and make the engine bay kinda ugly and since we don't have emmision testing here and the auto industry make better cats than back in the 80's most of the smog pump and air stuff can be removed and not harm the atmosphere.
I figure it wouldn't help make any more power but just make things more simple under the hood.

 

Yes it will work for you even if you dont have hedders.
I removed all the AIR stuff and it still passes the emissionstesting over here whitout any problems. I guess we have the same emissionlaws as you do.