Been looking around for heads for a near future build and having trouble deciding on what to get. Wanting to build a nice streetable roller 350-355 with atleast 400hp @ the flywheel, but the more the better. And don't know are specs are better than others for a given price. So i thought i would post what i think i'm looking for and see where i can improve on. Budget for heads would be around 1,000-1,500 give or take 100. Was looking at cheaper iron heads but for a few hundred more i could get aluminum. So why not. Going to run around 9.0-9.5 comp. So the questions are what size intake runners do i need 180cc or is 200cc to much. What size exhuast cc i'm a looking for. Valve size would be 2.020/1.600. Chamber size around 62-64cc. I would something to accept up to .540-.575 of lift or so. Cam size was around 218/224 @.50 .495/.503 lsa 112. Are single springs fine that are mad to handle that life or are dual springs alot better? Are CNC machined combustion chambers better than non? Do I want D-port or square Exhuast port shape? Valve guide material Phosphorous bronze or Manganese bronze? Valve seat material Ductile iron or Tungsten? Something like BRO-1021001 or DRT-11321111? I seen these summits got SUM-162111. Are they a big NO or are the ok? I don't have a vortec intake but i could go that route if it would do. Just didn't want to buy new heads for 500+ and turn around and spend 400+ or so in machine work. Right now a have a performer intake, I wouldn't mind getting a better one though. Also i wouldn't mind sprinkling a lil 100shot on combo. Thanks, sorry for the long post.

 

Holy cow man, give me some white space there! You're all over the place with your questions, lets go one step at a time eh?
Also, is this in your supra? A chevy 350 in a supra? You're going to have to post a picture of that weird car before you get banned

218/224 is a pretty small cam. I'm assuming that's a hydraulic roller?
That small cam would work best with 190cc heads or so. Keep it below 200cc.

Chamber size depends on pistons, to set your CR - i'm sure you know that. 64cc is probably where you want to be.

Your cam should spec springs. rollers are heavier, so the springs need to be a bit stronger, but you have a small cam. Beehives or entry level dual springs should work ok.

CNC machined combustion chambers are better yes. At least if they're CNC machining it for more flow

What RPM powerband do you want to be in? Is the cam already purchased, and is that setting your powerband?
Get the performer RPM, performer is a stock manifold. What induction is going to be used, carb?
Exhaust port shape - I wouldn't get too worried about that.

Look for head flow data in the 190cc is area. Canfield, Dart Platinum, TrickFlow, Brodix, etc.

 

Yeah sorry i was a little hyper when posting. Naw, its not going in the surpa i have a stock 95 flat tappet that i gonna try and run tbi on for it. I'll try and post so pics of the progress if ya want. The N/A straight 6 wasn't cuttin it The other engine i'm wanting to build is going into a 80 Elk. Its prob gonna be a roller setup. I don't know what kinda of pistons i'm gonna run yet but i'll work it with the chmaber size to get the right compresion. As for as the power band 1,500-5,500 is where i was shooting for. Small duartion high lift cam? So anywhere between 190cc-200cc is a good size? I'm was only looking at running 9.0-9.5 comp. with aluminum heads. Do i need to bump it on up closer to 10? No, havn't bought cam yet. So atleast a performer RPM manifold anything better? Using a 600Vs Holley. I already have headers so i didn't know about the exhuast port shape and stuff. But it doesn't really matter? Thanks for the help

 

exhaust port shape isn't as important as everything else. I'd let that fall into place later.

Yea, small duration, and obviously as much lift as possible yep.

No, 9.5:1 is good for that small cam. You want your powerband to come on early, you don't want a big cam, so you don't want sky high compression, or the small cam will build excess cylinder pressure.

I'd stay below 200cc yes. Otherwise you'll kill off some of your torque. 180-195cc will work. The smallest port size with the most flow sorta thing. So a really high quality AFR 180, would be better than a lower quality 190cc (insert lesser cylinder head here). So get flow data before you make any choices, and don't even look at flow over .500" since your cam isn't above that anyway.

Performer RPM. Might as well go for the best.

 

Pic of the supra progress. Still got alot of more work to go.

 

What the crap?
Is that a steel motor plate? That you'll be using long term? You gotta keep the water off that, your waterpump and crank pulley don't look as nice as the rest of the motor anymore

 

Haha. Yeah steel plate. As long term as it lastes. They don't excatly make coversion engine mounts The exhuast would get in the way of my other mounts i made, so i figured why not. Yeah nothing is real pretty right now just trying to get it to work.

 

Did you make the motor plate yourself? How?
What's it fastened to? You still have another mount to control back-front engine movement right? As well as the tranny mount for tilt? (forward/back?)
Cool, always wondered how one would go about a swap like this. Link me to your website if you have one, with more pictures of that car. I want to know what it looks like from outside, i'm unfamiliar with that car.
What tranny are you using? Any problems fitting everything in the bay?

It should be a really weird car. Didn't those come with stock turbos in that year? (ie, why bother using a V8 chevy?)

 

Yeah me and my dad made the plate. 1/4 Plate. The plate is bolted to each frame rail. And bolted to the front of the engine. Yeah fabbed up a tranny crossmember mount. I just have a cardomain site with a lot of write up on the car before the swap. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/609592 Useing a 700R4 cause thats what we had layin around. It actually fits in there kinda nice. Had to beat the tranny tunel just a little to fit it in. Yeah they could have came with turbos factory. Mine was a n/a it was gettin tired 200,000 miles. I could build a high output chevy for what a stock rebuild cost for the yota. And plus i found that someone else did it. So i was like if they could do it I'll try to http://www.sdsefi.com/features/dec00supra.htm
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We are working on the alt/ac brackets tonight i'll try to post some updates throughout the week.

 

stick with a set of Corvette Aluminum heads and get them ported, there good stuff

 

Another pic of the modified plate.

 

that is pretty tit looking but screw vette heads you pay through the nose and it is all hype

go down to your pick a part yard and get a pair of 062 heads i paid $350 for a perfect set complete took them off the truck my self with 34k original miles
and i am very impressed with them onlything that worrys me is the top of the intake port is thinner than i would like

 

I would but theres not really a pick a pary yard around here thats not already been picked apart like Crazy. But i have some 083 i gonna p&p to go on the elk. And just use the 193s right now for the supra. I already cleaned up the ports pretty good on them. Since i built it back stock for now that way i can learn the tbi system better before i start modifying it to much.