305
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1971 Chevelle
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 bolt, limited slip
305
i just got a 305 for free from a friend and i tore it apart and cleaned it. how much horsepower do you think i can get out of it and what all do you think i should do?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Hp from a 305?
You needed to make 2 threads to ask this question?
This question is far too vague. What do you WANT to get out of it? HP wise? What usage, drag, daily driver, hot street, etc? How much $ you got?
Is this a complete turnkey 305, or a block?
If it's a block, "free" is about what it's worth. Blocks are the cheap part of an engine, in the end.
This question is far too vague. What do you WANT to get out of it? HP wise? What usage, drag, daily driver, hot street, etc? How much $ you got?
Is this a complete turnkey 305, or a block?
If it's a block, "free" is about what it's worth. Blocks are the cheap part of an engine, in the end.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1971 Chevelle
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 bolt, limited slip
Re: 305
sorry about two threads i didnt mean to post the first one. but this is like a car i drive almost everyday but not far just to like school and friends house, i want it to be like a street car but fast and able to get a good time at the strip. money is that much of a problem cuase i work and i will just get things over time as i get more money.
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dont you guys have 305's?
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dont you guys have 305's?
Last edited by 71velle; Mar 20, 2007 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Re: 305
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dont you guys have 305's?[/QUOTE]
Some of us have already overcame that problem, and the rest are aiming towards the same goal usually. It's called replacing the 305 with a 350 at least!
No replacement for displacement! P.S. I won't knock a 305 for longevity though. They're like Toyota engines, they hardly ever die. If you're after lots of power, you really need to go bigger though (i.e. 4" bore at least).
dont you guys have 305's?[/QUOTE]
Some of us have already overcame that problem, and the rest are aiming towards the same goal usually. It's called replacing the 305 with a 350 at least!
No replacement for displacement! P.S. I won't knock a 305 for longevity though. They're like Toyota engines, they hardly ever die. If you're after lots of power, you really need to go bigger though (i.e. 4" bore at least). Last edited by Pat Hall; Mar 21, 2007 at 05:31 AM.
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Re: 305
what all do you think i should do?
The "core", which is the worn-out thing you're rebuilding, is about 2% of the total cost of an engine rebuild. So, for 2% more money, you can get 15% more power.
So, how it is EVER a good idea to rebuild a 305, even if it's free?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: 305
That's the age old question isn't it?
They respond the same to equal modifications as a 350 would, but smaller.
Some hot 305s on this board run SR torquer heads, or the 416 stock heads, but ported. Few people have used aftermarket heads on their 305 (usually they give their heads a shake and get the 4" bore kit first).
They respond the same to equal modifications as a 350 would, but smaller.
Some hot 305s on this board run SR torquer heads, or the 416 stock heads, but ported. Few people have used aftermarket heads on their 305 (usually they give their heads a shake and get the 4" bore kit first).
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: 305
Maybe he'll find it... I think it's in the aisle with the square drill bits, the powerbands, blinker fluid, piston return springs, and the offset drilled starter that fits the 153tooth flywheel....
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1971 Chevelle
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 bolt, limited slip
Re: 305
there is a 4 inch bore kit?
what would be the biggest crank i could put in a 305
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oh and im not using the stock heads i dont think, i think im getting new ones. any suggestions?
what would be the biggest crank i could put in a 305
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oh and im not using the stock heads i dont think, i think im getting new ones. any suggestions?
Last edited by 71velle; Mar 21, 2007 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
Re: 305
you could deffinitly put the 350 crank in it for a displacement of...guess what? a whooooping 305 ci ... now your cooking with fire
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
"Could" and "should" are two completely different questions. They go right back to the fact that you're starting with a 305 block.
Go get a 350 (aka "4 inch bore kit"). At least the shortblock, depending upon what heads are on the 305 - some 305 heads are actually pretty decent.
I just hauled a 305 shortblock to the scrap yard last weekend. Got $25 for it. That is absolutely the best thing you can do with a 305 block that needs rebuilding.
And don't ever, EVER mistake me for a 305 hater.
Go get a 350 (aka "4 inch bore kit"). At least the shortblock, depending upon what heads are on the 305 - some 305 heads are actually pretty decent.
I just hauled a 305 shortblock to the scrap yard last weekend. Got $25 for it. That is absolutely the best thing you can do with a 305 block that needs rebuilding.
And don't ever, EVER mistake me for a 305 hater.
Re: 305
Yeah, I agree with five7, I don't hate 305's at all, just don't see the point in building one when 350's are common as dirt!
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From: maine
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
Re: 305
you will be much happier giving the 305 away to someone else. i bought my 350 4 bolt block for 150.00 so for 150 more dollars you could be on your way to a 383 stroker. i gave my 305 away with the tpi heads for 60.00
It just does not make sense to start from scratch with a 305. I understand some people work with what they got but this is not the case.
It just does not make sense to start from scratch with a 305. I understand some people work with what they got but this is not the case.
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From: South Dakota
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 305
This age old question of 305 vs. 350. I like the fact after you spank someone, they ask if it's a 350 and it's just a "Lowly" 305.
Anyways, probably the best thing to do like some have said is to turn to N20. It will give you that extra power without sacrificing driveablility when you're not using it. S/R Torquer heads are good for the 305 and you could stroke it to 335 C.I. with a 400 crank. http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/specials.cfm I know this company has a kit to stroke it, you just need to have the block machined and go from there.
Anyways, probably the best thing to do like some have said is to turn to N20. It will give you that extra power without sacrificing driveablility when you're not using it. S/R Torquer heads are good for the 305 and you could stroke it to 335 C.I. with a 400 crank. http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/specials.cfm I know this company has a kit to stroke it, you just need to have the block machined and go from there.
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
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Re: 305
i am sorry but your not smoking anything with a L03 without major work to that engine it just isnt going to happen even if the damn thing was brandnew
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From: South Dakota
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 305
You're not retarded you're just not blessed with many 350 junkies who keep a good stock of cores around. http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=341 That is the link for the 335 stroker kit... I think it runs $600 plus whatever else you add on. Comes with
• Hypereutectic Piston (10cc Dish 10:1 w/58cc)
• CR1 5.7" Connecting Rods
• Street/Strip Piston Rings
• Rod Bearings
• Main Bearings
• Cast Stroker Crank
• Full Gasket Set (2-pc. Seal/Carb. Only)
Flexplate: Automatic Transmission
Flywheel: Manual Transmission
Not too much machining is required. Any competent machine shop should be able to help you out. Call up the company I gave you the link to and they would be able to give you the specs and numbers to give to the machine shop. Get all the parts, read a magazine article on how to assemble an engine, and VIOLA you've got a 335 stroker. More power but still keeps the fuel economy and saves some bucks on building up a 350 Core.
• Hypereutectic Piston (10cc Dish 10:1 w/58cc)
• CR1 5.7" Connecting Rods
• Street/Strip Piston Rings
• Rod Bearings
• Main Bearings
• Cast Stroker Crank
• Full Gasket Set (2-pc. Seal/Carb. Only)
Flexplate: Automatic Transmission
Flywheel: Manual Transmission
Not too much machining is required. Any competent machine shop should be able to help you out. Call up the company I gave you the link to and they would be able to give you the specs and numbers to give to the machine shop. Get all the parts, read a magazine article on how to assemble an engine, and VIOLA you've got a 335 stroker. More power but still keeps the fuel economy and saves some bucks on building up a 350 Core.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: 305
What city and state are you in?
I have a VERY hard time believing you can't find a 350 core in the continental USA.
There's bound to be a member on this very board (out of the 30,000 some odd users), that can direct you. Every junkyard in north america will have some form of 350, and many machine shops will as well. If you can get a pre-machined 350 for a decent price, then it's easier than finding a 350 and paying for the machine work (which can add up to say $600 quite quickly).
A 305 stroker (aka 335) is a stupid idea. Forget that idea altogether. Do some searches on here if you want to get more info on it, but suffice it to say, it's not a "wise" choice.
I have a VERY hard time believing you can't find a 350 core in the continental USA.
There's bound to be a member on this very board (out of the 30,000 some odd users), that can direct you. Every junkyard in north america will have some form of 350, and many machine shops will as well. If you can get a pre-machined 350 for a decent price, then it's easier than finding a 350 and paying for the machine work (which can add up to say $600 quite quickly).
A 305 stroker (aka 335) is a stupid idea. Forget that idea altogether. Do some searches on here if you want to get more info on it, but suffice it to say, it's not a "wise" choice.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
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From: Summerville, SC
Car: 1971 Chevelle
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 bolt, limited slip
Re: 305
alrite well luckily today in the paper there was a 400 sbc and a couple 350's. should i try and get the 400 or the 350 cuase i heard 400's have over heating problems
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From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: 305
Yea, go for the 400CID first, since more cubes = more power (unless you want to have less power and better mileage. Your call).
If it's in bad shape, any 350 would work.
If it's in bad shape, any 350 would work.
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