Well i got the 383 fired up for the first time today and i was so excited to hear it roar until i saw oil dripping from the timing chain cover where it mates with the oil pan. After about 30 min of breaking in the cam there was a 4" by 4" puddle under the car and two inch by inch puddles in the rear. This is a brand new motor and my first build. The guy helping me get it running said "if it a chevy and its not leaking oil then its not running good". I don't believe that, this is a new motor and it should not be leaking that much oil already. Would it work to smear some RTV sealant around the front timing chain cover/oil pan seal and tighten the oil pan bolts a little more or do i have to drop the pan and replace the seal? Im using a blue one piece seal and it was put in correctly with plenty of rtv in the corners.

 

i'd replace the pan gasket if that's what you think the problem is. the one piece gaskets are pretty much bullet proof.

 

I'd recommend checking the 2 bolt holes where the smog pump bracket used to be, on the front of the block to the pass side of the timing cover... the upper one goes RIGHT STRAIGHT INTO the crankcase. You can look in there and see the fuel pump rod.

Put a SHORT bolt in that hole with a drop of silicone on the threads, and try running it again.

I'd also recommend leaving the pan gasket alone unitl such time as you're CERTAIN that that's where it's coming from.

 

I agree with sofa, I have done that before with the smog pump bolt hole. If you didnt already know that bolt hole also makes it very easy to change a manual fuel pump.

But if in dought pull the pan and replace the gasket. I dont know if any one else does this but I grind the corners off the timming cover where the seal goes so that I can pull it without droping the oil pan. I

 

"the one piece gaskets are pretty much bullet proof"

Thats what im using and it is still leaking alot.
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Im pretty sure it is the seal, i wiped alot of oil from the bottom of the seal where it was coming from with my finger

 

How sure are you that there's a bolt in that hole? If you're not sure about that, don't be so sure about the other, either.

Gravity will take the oil from the bolt hole to that other place.

 

well i just went out and checked and there is a bolt in the upper hole and it is dry. At the bottom of the seal is where i feel oil. Is it possible to take out the front two bolts on the oil pan to allow the timing chain cover to come off? Im almost possive this is what it is, everywhere else is dry.

 

Unless the corners are ground like I stated above, you will need to remove more than just the front 2 bolts, it may come out but getting it back in is the issue.

 

This is a very common problem. If you don't vividly remember doing this, I'd go check it out and do it. Not saying this is your problem, but it might prevent future problems down the road! Good luck buddy!
-Greg

 

Yeah the back two leaks are from the valve covers and the front is coming from the timing chain seal on the bottom. Is it normal to have metel shavings under the valve covers where the oil gathers in the top of the head behind the springs on a new engine after breaking the cam in?

 

No. Not there, or anywhere else.

Drain the oil and inspect it. Maybe cut open the filter. Expect the worst.

 

A couple things to check:
1. Did you use the pan gasket with the thick or thin front seal?
2. Did you snug all of the pan bolts again? Double check to make sure they're tight.
3. Are you running a PCV system? Until the rings seat, you may be building up pressure in the crank case. Run a PCV. The open element filters do not do a proper job of venting the crankcase.

Also, you can loosen all of the bolts on the pan and pull the front down. You should be able to pull it down enough to wipe the surface and squeeze some sealant around the gasket surface.

 

are any of the bolts over torqued, i beleive they are 3 ft. lbs. of tourque. on the timing cover, and 12 on the pan, check it, heli-coil it, and see if it works

 

I drained the oil and there was some very fine metel shavings in the oil. The shavings in the head were very fine too, smaller than a grain of salt. They were just kinda stuck together in places with the oil.

The seal in the front looks like it is the thick one. I tightened the 2 front bolts a little more and it seems to be leaking less but still has a leak. Im running a pcv system in one side and a breather in the other

 

metal shavings in the oil, yea, you got a huge problem which is obviously extensive metal to metal contact, during the rpm's. its in the rotating mass, it could be sevear wear with the rings, wrong lifters for the cam, the shaft for the oil pump, any of the above and beyond, i dont know unless you looked for wear and tear, which means pullin the engine, and tearing it apart, not fun.

 

I thought it was normal to have some metel shaving in the oil after breaking in a new engine? Isnt that why you are supposed to change the oil after breakin and after 500 miles?

 

the only time it's normal to have metal in the oil is when there's wear on the metal parts and it gets into the oil other wise the only thing you should see in the oil is oil.

 

Really? Every engine i've broken in has had metal in the oil. Made my oil look shiny. The particles looked like dust.
Remember new engine and cam. Parts wear into each other.