Apparently since I have a flat tappet cam, I have to remove the inner valve spring or I'll lose the cam. WTF!?!?! What is the importance of removing this spring? The heads are on the block. and after break-in you are expected to reinstall the inner spring, how in the hell do you do that..?


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

nevermind

 

I thought the same thing!I have the comp cam xe284 cam and It says to remove the spring also.I did'nt remove it I just left my rockers loose and shes fine.

 

Well, I dont want to leave those loose at that high of RPM during break-in. I'll just ****ing remove em, break the mother****er in, and have a ball reinstallling them with a fully assembled motor in the ****ing engine bay

 

Umm, it's not really that hard of a job.

 

woo woo, try it with triple springs that are over 450 pounds open pressure then get back to me That is one of the easiest swaps to do, just get the spring compresser from a parts store that goes off the rocker stud and you'll be fine, takes no more than an afternoon and a 12 pack heh.

 

yea but the lash adjusting with the engine in car... geeze

 

i adjust lash on my camaro all the time with no issues

 

Now this tool is ****ing up my threads on the studs. It is now a two man job since there is no way to compress the spring enough to get the nut back on the stud. This is re-god-damn-diculous

 

What is?

The standard operating procedure for high-pressure springs on a flat-tappet cam that all the rest of us have been following for decades; or all the belly-aching about it?

This is one of the reasons that alot of us prefer rollers.

 

Why do you have to compress the spring to get the nut on the stud?

 

cause the spring is so tall, the tool till not go on the stud w/o compressing the spring

 

What kind of spring compressor are you using? If you're getting that kind of a problem, it sounds like you're using the wrong compressor, or your studs are too short.

 

its shaped like an L, but like 110*. It gets bolted to the rocker arm stud where it eats my threads

 

Oh my ****, was that a bitch and a half. We had to fit a tube that went around the rocker stud to protect the threads. Both oof my palms are chewed up because I had to compress the spring to get the nut off the arm stud. I cant wait to do this when the engine is in the car. I'm going to get one that compresses the spring only.

 

Those don't work on dual springs. It sounds like the lever compressor you've got was made for smaller engines.

 

it says for GM V8 engines... They should make one that bolts onto the rocker stud and pivots freely

 

"They" do.

"They" also make better ones; somewhat like this. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D906784

This is merely a normal part of performance engine building. It's part of the price you pay for going fast. It's a little more difficult and tedious than building a stocker; which is part of the reason that stock engines come with the limits that they do. This kind of attention to detail costs too much at the factory.

If that cheeeeep chinesium thing is eating your studs, you must have stock ones still. No decent ones would be damaged, or even have their finish scratched, by one of those 1010 cold-rolled tools. Expect to be changing those out before too much more water goes under the bridge; and be compressing the valve springs .... again.

 

I have ARP Screw-In studs..

 

with stock rocker nuts? or poly lock nuts? Using stock rocker nuts on ARP studs is a no-no and even stated in the studs directions.

 

I'm throwing in the towel soon.....

 

Then most likely, what you're seeing is shreds of the tool that have been worn off onto the studs; not damage to the studs. The studs will be fine. They are about 10 times harder than that tool. You might as well complain about your knife getting worn down or damaged by the butter you're spreading with it.

I guess I'm just too used to doing this. It's just such a normal and ordinary thing to do, that I don't see how it's a problem or some kind of a big deal or whatever. Certainly not a cause for a bunch of cursing and complaining and foul unprintable language. It's just part of the package that you signed up for when you bought a cam like that. It comes with the territory. You want a performance motor, it takes a little more effort than a stock one. Period.

Get the right tools, and learn how to use them, and it's a piece of cake.

Adjusting the rockers is done the same way with the motor in the car, as it would be with it out of the car. Find a push rod that's pushed all the way up when you are putting the rockers back on, and identify the valve; put the rocker onto the same valve on the cylinder that's 4 positions away in the firing order (18436572), for example if the #3 intake is fully open, then look at the #2 intake, and screw the Poly-Lock down while wiggling the rocker, until the rocker just contacts the push rod; tighten it 1 turn more; then set all of the other 15 nuts to the exact same height and tighten the set screws with the allen. Then crank the motor up, and one at a time, loosen them until they just start clacking, and tighten them until they just quit, and tighten the allen. Do all 16 as fast as you conveniently can. Then shut the motor off, and tighten them all an additional ½ turn; and tighten the nut (with a box wrench) and the allen together to lock the Poly-lock in place. Put about 15-18 ft-lbs on the 2 hardwares together. Do the same thing after you put the inner springs back in after break-in.