Did two tests, motor warm, did not drip oil in a cylinder(just the dry test), cranked five times on each cylinder.

Cyl1: 150 / 150
Cyl2: 140 / 140
Cyl3: 145 / 150
Cyl4: 145 / 160
Cyl5: 150 / 160
Cyl6: 145 / 150

Now I know the compression levels themselves aren't as important as their relationship to each other. The second test seems to be more stable than the first, and that 140psi on cyl2 is what bugs me. Manual says no lower than 75% of the highest, so it's within spec, but still lower than the others. Should I worry about it?

 

I wouldn't worry about it unless you're looking for an excuse to put a 350 in it, in which case cylinders #7 and #8 are reading zero in your engine. The compression test is mostly to indicate a sealing failure in the engine. The reason for the spec being based on a % difference from highest to lowest is to allow for differences in actual dynamic compression ratio of the engine, "normal wear" and conditions at time of test ie: 5000 ft altitude, 30'f verses 90'f temp, cranking voltage/rpm. This is why it doesn't say "if it is below 140 rebuild the engine". If you're still not sure, change the oil, give it a tune up, and drive it a week. The readings will be different, I promise.

 

140psi is still good, its when you start dropping below 120 its a good time to look into a rebuild or whole new motor.

Typically you want to keep all of the cylinders within 10% of each other. Though you are slightly over 10% on that #2 hole, i wouldnt loose sleep over it.

 

Alright then. Thanks. I'm just trying every avenue to diagnose some power issues. I found that my plug wires had melted due to certain useless brackets pushing them onto exhaust pipes(which were promptly removed and wires replaced), my spark plugs are fouled(one has oil all over the threads, but not on the gap area?). I met a guy around town with the same engine, 100% stock, that can roast the tires in a heartbeat, and I'm starting to wonder why I can't even get close to it.

 

Did ya ever think that maybe your car has good tires and his doesn't?
If you have a 3rd gen with a stock 2.8 and it roasts the tires something is way wrong with the tires.

 

That may be true, but the car is just generally more quick and has a snappier response.

 

Let's be honest now, . C'mon, you know you want to....

 

Actually, that's for my project car; this baby is my daily driver and the most she'll get is a 3.4L block(need the gas mileage).

Now my project car is another story... (1700lb '87 Chevette, 3400 FWD, five speed)