Lookin to get some cylinder heads in the very near future, and want some opinions on what I should buy. This is what my engine consists of right now

Holley 670 Avenger
Edelbrock Performer intake maifold
stock 882 heads
Flat top pistons
Headers

The rest im not too sure on because I bought the car like this. so im guessing it has a fairly stock bottom end, it was rebuilt about 20K before I got it though. He did say it had some kind of a cam, but didnt give me specs or anything, and thats kinda screwin me up.

The rest of my stuff is in my sig.

Im not lookin to buy AFR's here, just something to get rid of the old 882s. Around the $400-$800 range, assembled. Im thinkin about going with vortecs, and gettin a vortec style performer RPM manifold, but that would also mean a cowl hood, so im not to sure about that idea.

I would love if the car was able to get into the high 12's, and have around 300 at the wheels.

 

best way vortec but what cam u have

 

he already said that he is unsure of his cam




what about these heads??? $800 complete, they sound really good---http://www.patriot-performance.com/w...03567&DID=1225

 

i didnt think you would need a cowl hood to run the vortec RPM

 

The "RPM" hi rise manifold will fit under the stock hood if you use the right low profile drop base air cleaner. You can search my old posts using the keyword "L-88" to find out the details. If you don't want to change the manifold the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads work very well. I would get the 64cc chamber heads. these heads work well "out of the box" but really shine with a little basic port cleanup. They are a good buy overall. The Edelbrock "performer EPS" manifold is taller than the performer but a little shorter than the RPM. It's worth 10hp over the performer.
The good old Weiand Stealth # 8016 works well too. Lots of room to play with a carb spacer and/or thick nitrous plate to dial it in.

If you prefer cast iron heads the World Products 200cc port 64cc chamber Sportsman II's are still a $good buy$. Especialy if you don't mind giving them a little hand valve bowl, short side radius and guide boss porting work to tune 'em up a bit. Lots of room to grow there. These head can still flow an impressive amount of air ( over 300 cfm with full porting) and make impressive power when tweeked properly. Any of the entry level <$1000 aftermarket heads will be a big leap ahead from what you're running now.

If you're cheap like me you might consider doing up a set of small chambered 305 HO heads with full home grown porting and big valves. Can be done for about half the price of new aftermarket heads if you do the porting yourself.

 

thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Got another question. Is their any way to tell the basic specs of the cam without removing it?

and say I got the E-tecs and a bigger cam, would my holley 670 Avenger still be enough? Would my exhaust eevn be enough anymore lol. Wish I would have known more back when I got the exhaust done, they recomended a single 3" setup and I agreed :S

 

Why the Avenger? Horrible choice, regardless of the CFM.

 

again, lack of knowledge at the time. Car needed a new carb, this jackass mechanic that my dad used to know picked one and put it on. Now I know muuuuch more thankfully.

same jackass mechanic ran the fuel lines to the carb. Used rubber hose and connected it all with metal hose clips that you squeeze to take on and off. Thanks for the fuel leak jackass

Just gave me a reason to go steel braided haha

 

Yes you can usually figure out what cam you have by knowing the cam lobe lift. You can read the cam lobe lift off the lifter body edge using a dial indicator with the intake manifold removed. With a solid lifter cam you could read the cam lobe lift off the back of the rocker arm (over the pushrod) but with a hyd lifter that won't work. Cam lobe lift x rocker arm ratio = valve lift.

For maximum performance you should be using a 750cfm carb on a hi perf 350ci motor. Your 670cfm carb will give up 5 to 10 hp to a 750 assuming its jetted for max power.