Ok im going to replace my cam and timing chain. Question is what is the easiest way to go about getting the timing chain cover off without removing the entire oil pan. Never done this before and looking for the quickest way to go about it. thanks for reading

 

Just unbolt the pan and drop the front of it down.

 

1. Take the belts off.
2. Remove the water pump.
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
4. Pull of the balancer.
5. Remove all the timing cover bolts.
6. Loosen at least the first half of the oil pan bolts.
7. Remove timing cover.
8. Undo the three bolts and the camshaft gear.
9. Bring the camshaft gear down.
10. With extral slack now, remove chain.
11. Remove crankshaft gear.

Installationn is pretty much the reverse of dissasenbly. Either you will want to turn the motor to tdc, or you will want to make a good note of the timing marks. I did this on my two post lift to my 89 bird and i didn't think it was all that bad. Good luck and i hope you get it running right bud.

 

Aligning the timing marks may not be necessary in your case, since you will be replacing the cam.

Get a crankshaft socket before you begin the project. You'll also want a 5-8" length or 7/16-20 threaded rod and a few mating nuts (5" is long enough, 8" can be too long in some installations). Since you'll be removing the radiator, you'll have plenty of room for a longer length (this time). You will also need a 1/8" pin punch, a good gasket scraper, a large socket or drift (to install the new TC seal), and a torque wrench. Other supplies you should have include antiseize compound, LocTite 242 or other service-removable thread locker, PST thread sealant, fresh coolant, sensor-safe RTV gasket sealant, lacquer thinner, fresh oil, a new oil filter, and your gasket set.

A crank snout socket, will be useful to turn the crank easily, since it might be a good idea to run the crank through a few cycles once you get the cam installed and rockers back in place, so you can observe the valve action.

Remember to:

• Clean the EGR passages while the intake is off;
• Inspect the lifter rollers and axles;
• Change the distributor gear if appropriate. It would also be a good time to check/adjust distributor axial play;
• While the intake is off, clean up any sludge from the lifter valley;
• Wire brush or burnish the cam gear as directed in the camshaft installation instructions;
• Check the push rods for straightness, and clean their oil passages (unless you're installing new push rods);
• LocTite the cam thrust plate bolts and cam sprocket bolts with 242 or a similar thread locker before torquing to specs;
• Pre-lube the lifters cam lobes, and cam/distributor gear before assembly;
• Turn the engine to on the #1 cylinder compression stroke before installing the intake and timing cover. This will make distributor installation much easier;
• Scrape all gasket material ands residue from surfaces, then wipe clean with solvent or lacquer thinner before installing new gaskets and/or sealant;
• Pre-lube the rocker pivots and push rod tips when assembling them;
• Install the intake with the end seals and a small bead of RTV above and below the seals. Also add RTV at the joints for the intake gaskets;
• Pre-lube the timing cover seal with clean grease before assembly;
• Apply thread sealant to the water pump bolt and intake bolt threads;
• Anti-seize the distributor hold down clamp bolt;
• Install the new oil pan front seal with plenty of RTV at the ends - You can trim the excess once it cures;
• Use the threaded rod and nuts to pull the balancer back into place so you can control the engagement of the key and monitor the TC seal as it installs.

It's the little things that can make all the difference.

 

alright thank you very much for the replies. Im also replacing the heads rods lifters as well, so maybe i can get this thing running great! you guys just answered everything perfectly step by step for me. Thanks a bunch guys !

 

Can you explain this a bit? I would just use a harmonic balancer installer, it's got a beefer stud on it to help push on the balancer. "monitor the TC seal as it installs", why's that? or...how?
Also, can/should one polish the crank where it mates with the TC seal to prevent leaks? I think mine leaks there, and i'm going to pull the engine this winter so i'd love some advice on this.

 

t/c seal does not ride on crank. Itrides on the damper snout and over time will wear agrove in it. NAPA sells a new seal surface that is pressed on the damper snout to give it a new surface to ride on. Just press on and coat with oil then reinstall damper and will be as good or better than new.

 

They also make oversized oil seals to go with the sleeves, but if your dampener is so old that it has that kind of wear, then it's probably time to replace it anyway.