About two months ago, I posted concerning the same problem. I had driven home, the car sat about 20 minutes, went to the car, and it would not crank over. One proposed solution was that I still had my 20 year old starter motor, and it was too weak to turn over a hot engine. After 3 hours, the car started up just fine. So I thought that the starter motor was weak.

So I bought and installed a new high torque starter motor, works great!

But now once again the car will not start, here are some facts: battery has 12.55V, fuel pump comes on, head lights work, dome light comes on, windows work, after one hour of quik charge engine still would not crank, checked all fuses by my left knee all OK.

The one thing that does not work now is the power rear hatch lift gate, the button on the center console will not activate to open the rear hatch. I have an automatic in this car, 700R4.

What cut out switches might prevent the starter motor from engaging,,, Possibly in the steering column or in the tranny. Basically, I have no power to the starter motor. The seliniod (spelling) makes no clicking noise even.

 

Doc

If you are getting no action what so ever from starter solenoid (verify with a test light or DVM) then check your p/n safety switch. Move gear selector into P or N and try again. Starter solenoid wire is passed through P/N switch - they do go bad after time. It is worth a look.

//RF

 

RF Master has probably nailed your problem. If not, does your car have VATS by any chance? I know that with VATS, over time the reader in the ignition switch wears out over time.

Two other things - how old is the wiring to the starter? Over time, the wires get old and corroded - and greatly reduce the amount of current getting to the starter.

Second, do you have a heat shield over the starter and is your exhaust wrapped to reduce heat? From your modifications, your engine is putting out a lot of heat and you may be suffering for heat soak.

PS: I am not as old as dirt, but I remember what I was doing at school when I heard JFK got shot.

 

Thanks for the replies, and I was in the 7th grade when JFK was shot. I was in college when the DZ302 was in its hay-day.

I will look into the P/N switch, I knew that that existed but did not know what it was called. I had moved the shifter around, up and back, but had it in Park all the time.

Basically, all wiring is 20 years old (original factory wiring). VATS has never been on the car. I will check over the wiring to the starter motor, however, when I installed the new starter, I did not notice that there was a problem. There is a new one way connection plug on the starter wiring, i will need to crawl under and check this out.

 

As I suspected, it is a simple fix, that new connection simply came apart. This new starter had a flat blade for the hot purple wire connection. I had to cut off factory bolt type end to the purple wire & solder on a blade type receptable.. It simple vibrated loose.

Thanks for the input.

 

You knew that all all long. We just convinced you to get under there and check it out.

I suspect you had a "weak" connection and the added strain of heat put it over the edge (on the new starter). Had the connection COMPLETELY came loose, you would have figured it out in a heart beat.

Personally, since the wiring is old, you may wish to consider replacing the main power lead with a new lead. That is one of those "critical parts" that when they go, they can strand you.

Glad it was a simple fix.

 

Happen to me once, but never again...

//RF