Just as the topic states, help me choose a solid roller for my combo, specs in signature. Part numbers, location on where to buy etc. The thing is, I havn't even ran my car at the track yet and I want to go faster. This is a weekend street car and a strip car. Let me know your opinions.

 

How many times would you like to go faster?

What does it run like now? No time slips, obviously; what disappoints you? How much faster do you think you can get it to go without exploding? That is, how much of that kind of risk, are you willing to take?

 

Well, it pulls pretty hard right now up to were I have the rev limiter (5,000 rpms) It seems to want more. The only reason I have no timeslips for it is I'm still breaking in the clutch. If I can hit a high 11 or a very low 12 with this set up i'll leave it alone for now.
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Maybe another thing on whats holding it back is my stock tbi fuel pump w/ a return regulator. I initally set it at 6 psi at idle and when I drive it around for a while it seems to lose psi. It goes down to 3 psi and stays there. The guage was a 20 doller gauge that mounts to my regulator so I don't know how accurate it is.

 

?!? That solid flat cam should pull to 6500RPM easily. That's where your big happy power is.
Upgrade the fuel pump if need be, and tweak and tune it. Don't drop the cash on a bigger cam just yet, keep in mind a solid roller is easily $600 over what you've got now.

 

Exactly...

A solid roller cam is around $350 on up; a set of lifters is $400 and mid change; you'll need a cam button and a better timing cover; and most critical, you WILL ABSOLUTELY need new valve springs and ALL their associated hardware, and they will be EXPENSIVE. I would bet that this change-out will tear a $1000 bill into very small pieces and come back hungry for more before you turn the first bolt.

It's not exactly the kind of thing to just do on a lark.

Furthermore, if you have fuel delivery problems now, a solid roller cam won't fix that.

A better plan IMO would be to leave the motor alone and work out all those other issues; fix the traction problems or whatever other things might pop up, with what you've got; and when you get everything else that's BROKEN all dialed in, including putting a big enough carb on it, then maybe it'll be time to upgrade the cam. Or, who knows; once you get the rev limiter set to something sensible, you might find that it runs just fine as is. Or, your crank might break, and you'll need that $1000 for that.

 

Thanks for the replies, maybe I'll just bump my rev limiter to 6,500 rpm and see what happens. I've been shifting it at 5,000 rpm just to break in the clutch. Hopefully it pulls hard past that point.

 

It'd be cheaper to just get some nitrous