So Someone was telling me that I am going to have to replace the EGR components quite regularly and that I need to have them for the car to run, I am not sure what to believe, I was wanting to get rid of the stuff anyways, and was looking at headers and it looks like they dont have all the lines coming out of them like the manifolds do. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The lines coming out of the manifolds are part of the A.I.R. system.

My car still has the EGR system (which I'd like to know the negative reprocussions of removing it, like you do) and the A.I.R. system is long gone (as is the cat).

 

OOH, ok well what is the A.I.R. system, and where is the EGR then. Mine has the dual cats, and they are still in there, I just got the car today. Wondering what all I can remove LOL.

 

Bump, Still need to figure out what all I can take out, and what it affects for driveability, I really want to do this because my car runs like crap, And I would rather remove all this stuff than to replace it.

 

A.I.R. won't affect the way the car runs unless something has been defeated. Certainly won't make it run better if it is removed.

Fix what's really wrong that's making it run poorly.

 

What do you mean "my car runs like crap"?

 

i agree with five7. you need to fix what is wrong first before you start taking things off. not sure what year yours is, but guessing from your name it has speed density. so what i would do is check to see if you have any codes showing. here is a link to show you how to do it---https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...des#post712341

it is very simple to do. as they said in the post post what you get here or look at a haynes manual. any more questions....just ask.

 

Hey thanks everyone, sorry my car is a 91 trans am with the l98, it is missing horribly bad, cant really even drive it, I just bought the car this way, the guy said the head was messed up, but not sure whats wrong. It really sounds like it is just 2 spark plug wires crossed up, I havnt even had a chance to work on it yet.

 

The EGR valve is located under the plenum.

From the sound of it, you need to do a compression test before you spend any more time or money on this eng.

 

Start with the basics, like making sure the spark plug wires are on the right place and aren't shorting or open.

 

Ya, I still need to check that, I was gonna pull the plugs and replace them and also do the cap/rotor/wires and while the plugs where out do a compression check, Would the engine still knock with it just missing, It's not really a constant knock, just when you jab the gas, or with a load on the engine.

 

My car was doing the same thing. Backfiring under load, and when you jab the gas. It was barely drivable. Even worse when it was raining.

I tried to do a cap and rotor, but the screws for the cap were siezed in the distributor base, and they sheared off. I tried to twist them out with vise-grips and they sheared flush with the base.

I ended up getting a reman distributor from autozone for like $100 after the core return. Also got a Duralast Gold cap+rotor kit. The car runs perfect now, even with the stock origional coil and wires.

I really cant say what exactly fixed the problem, since I replaced the whole thing. All I know was it was worth the $140. It could have been the cap, rotor, ign modile, pick-up coil, or even the points that were really rusted. But thats all new now. Oh, btw the reman unit I got is made by "cardone".

 

Awesome, that gives me hope not, I hope it is as simple as that, I really dont want to tear the engine apart, I should be able to work on it this weekend, and actually get to drive the car, only time I drove it, I was limping it home. LOL