Ok I am back I had taken my car in to have a computer check done on it because it was idling at very high speed in or out of gear . Well the computer could not run the check they said that there may be wires damaged going to the computer modual.
To make a long story short I just had a complete restore done to the exterior at that time they had to put a small amount of sheet metal around the wheel well on the pasenger side, come to find out when that was done they think they may have hit the wires were the computer modual is "Yes that is my luck" anyhow First question what does one of these run price wise and second could this be causing my high RPMs?

 

First thing to do would be to pop the inner fender well (plastic piece around the wheel) out, take a look at the wiring and see if it's damaged. Wires aren't that hard to fix. Might not be much cost involved at all.

 

Thank You ,that is what our intensions are and hope for the best it was done by accident so I cant be upset with the person who did it,it is just very frustrating ,anyhow it would be great to find someone in my area who knows about these automobiles and not these people out there just guessing and then charging you an arm and a leg.

 

If you look, you won't have to guess.

Nothing that either you or we can post here will stop them from guessing.

Go look. Let us know what you find, maybe we can help. Post pics even.

Without you looking and telling us what's REALLY there, all we can do out here, is guess, too.

 

Thank You I have had more help on this forum I can't Thank You all enough. I have to go out of town this week so when I return we will tackle this problem.If it were that I have to replace the computer modual what do they run?

 

50 dollars used from hawks. I bought one 2 years ago and haven't had a single problem.

 

Not likely to be the "computer module". I wouldn't worry about that until you've checked the wires that might have got damaged.

Not sure what's to "tackle".... pop the wheel off, the inner fender liner is held on by a couple of either Philips head or 7mm hex screws and some of those plastic push-in clips that the head thing slides out to release, and then you look. Takes less time to look at it than to post stuff on the Internet.

 

ok we have car tore apart NO wires were damaged here is what someone is telling us they said to replace the IAC motor -But we want to know if there is a way to test if it is bad Is there a way remember the car is a tune port injected if that means anything.
Other problem is we checked the fans they are good but they are not kicking on we were told to replace relays is there a way to test if they were bad.
Reason for doing all of this to start with is she is running at a very high RPM in gear and out of gear NEVER did this before when she is ingaged into gear it seems like the motor wants to drop out she hits real hard.
This car ran great a month ago PLEASE help I don't get what is causing this Thank You

 

No wires damaged, is good.

The problem is unlikely to be the ECM. Do some troubleshooting and cleanup before jumping to that big expensive conclusion.

There is a procedure for setting up the idle. It's called "minimum air". The goal is, to set the mechanical stop for the throttles to some arbitrarily low RPM, something like 400-450 RPM in most cars, and then let the ECM control the IAC motor to open up a bit to maintain the correct idle. You're supposed to apply 12V to 2 of the connector pins for the IAC to close it down all the way, then set the RPM as described. The screw is on the driver's side, and the throttle comes to rest against it. Not hard to identify.

Before doing that though, clean the IAC. They don't generally "go bad", they mostly just get dirty. It's on the bottom right side of the TB near the coolant lines that go to the TB, has a plug with about 4 wires going to it, unscrews from the TB via a big hex. Take it out and soak it in lacquer thinner, get all the gunk out of it; then screw it back together if necessary (WARNING!!! if it needs to be screwed back in and it isn't, then when it's put back on, the little pintle thing will bottom in the housing and destroy stuff!!); and then if it needs the "minimum air" thing done, do that. Clean the little cavity in the TB that the IAC goes into as well, with a Q-tip or some such and some lacqyer thinner.

First thing should probably be to check the engine over carefully for vacuum leaks; look for disconnected vacuum lines, broken hoses, split rubber boots on the end, etc. A vacuum leak will produce a high unstable idle. Maybe even replace the PCV valve while you're at it.

 

On a nearly 20 year old car, it's often just a dirty contact that keeps a scanner from successfully connecting to the ECM. You might try some contact cleaner (Radio Shack has it). Is your "check engine" light on? There are tech articles on this site on testing/cleaning the ISC and on setting the idle.

 

I have done all that king said and still in the same dilema.Yes the check engine lite comes on when it gets warm after about 5 mins idle.We have been to three different mechanics and still nothing every time we get it back car is worse there is NO ONE that knows about tune port injection around here.That is my problem give me a regular carberator I can fix it blind this engine is all greek to me.But I will go to the tech article Thank You

 

That's a pretty common problem. There are not a lot of mechanics around that know the older engines or that want to spend the time debugging them. Have you tried using a paper clip to read the error codes? I'm sure there is an article here on how to do that as well (easy).

You might want to try a new ISC. Most of the parts stores will let you return it if it's not the problem (ask first of course).

 

Ok How do you do the paper clip for the codes I printed off how to read the codes but I dont understand were to find unit to do the Paper clip or hairpin to do this .
New ISC ?

 

Idle speed controller. It's on the right side of the throttle body. To get the codes go here: http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt2.pdf

 

What I don't get is it went to be put on machine and I was told it could not read the codes if the wires are all good why couldnt the mechanic get his diagnostic to pick up codes.
If I were to do it without machine what do you do? I know the codes know just instructions how to do it PLEASE.Thank You jv

 

Ok is this located by the fuse box? That is all I need to know then Im on my mission Thanxs to all

 

Go to the thirdgen.org homepage.

Click on the link on the left margin for "Third Gen Tech FAQ".

Go to the bottom under "Miscellaneous" and click on "Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?"

The ALDL is by your right knee as you sit in the driver's seat.

Happy fishing. . .

 

Thanks I'll be fishin

 

Im still fishin but I had another thing thrown at me today by a preformance shop they said, do to the high idle and alot of moisture coming out of exhaust to try and replace the oxygen sensor is this true and they said you need a special tool.If doing this will I disturb anything else and is it a good idea to try and resolve my problem.
Thank You AGAIN sofakingdom for your pm it is so true

 

No, the O2 sensor won't make it idle high. Geesh, don't these guys you're taking it to know anything?

 

I wish to god they did I wouldnt be in this situation I did all you said about cleaning and that didnt work I just wish someone around here knew it gets upsetting and I don't want to make things worse.Thank You for stopping me though before I did purchase sensor.

 

We did check the oxygen sensor it was pitch black so for a few bucks I put a new one in did not solve the problem but I know that is new Still Fishin.We did speak to another High preformance shop up in Sarasota they offered to take a look at it I am keeping my fingers crossed she goes in Monday morning hopefully when I get back from bussiness trip they will find the problem without costing me an arm n a leg.