Really need help on this one... I am rebuilding 92 l98 out of camaro. Since it was a tpi motor, stock camshaft does not have the fuel pump lobe on it, unfortunately, so now I need to get electric fuel pump. I don't want to spend money on that, rather I want to get a new cam instead. I am low on budget, so I want to reuse my rollers, lifters, springs and all that stuff, and just get the camshaft. (its a roller cam btw) I was looking at zz4 cam but I have no idea if I can still use my stock rollers? I am not looking into anything wild, rather very street able, but I need this solved quick, since I am going back to school next week.

 

Yes that cam will accomodate all of that stuff, except the springs. Stock valve springs are total crap, barely even enough for stock cams. They will break very quickly with any cam "bigger" than stock. That cam has WAY too much lift for them, especially on the exhaust side.

And, it has a fuel pump lobe, so you can use a $12 mechanical fuel pump.

Don't forget, you'll need the pump rod and the little block-off plate, if you don't already have those.

That's probably actually a fairly decent choice of cam for a mild, daily-driver, non-raced car. Just upgrade the springs and all their hardware. DISASTER is certain ifyou don't. The "Z28" or "LT4" springs are probably adequate, barely, if set up properly (correct installed height).

 

Thank you for replying so fast!
Now as a pump rod goes, there is nothing special about it, right? I can just use regular one? (Just making sure because its a roller cam)

And for springs. they are 083 heads, and when I pulled the springs off, the are actually double springs, but still I know nothing about them, are they still crap?

 

Never trust used springs, unless you know EXACTLY what they are, where they came from, and ALL their history, and you're comfortable with it.

They are probably not "double" springs. More likely, they are stock; which are single, with a damper. The damper looks like flat, ribbon-like material. It is not a spring.

You would be flirting with DISASTER by not replacing your valve springs. It is hard to believe how much damage you can do to an engine by using inappropriate ones, until you see it. Typical failures include the coils of the springs stacking up solid, which can pull the pull-out studs out, break the springs, bend and break push rods, destroy rocker arms, cause excessive cam lobe wear or destruction which then sheds metal chips into the engine which destroy the bearings; spring breakage, which can allow a valve to drop into a cylinder, which can bend rods, shatter pistons, and so forth; and other, even more serious failures. They are not a thing to be trifled with. DO IT RIGHT, or be prepared to DO IT AGAIN, and to have to spend MANY MANY MANY TIMES as much to clean up the mess, as it would have taken to do it right in the first place. Posting on the Internet and complaining about "budget" will not convince the parts not to break, so that's not really an option. Don't waste your energy on it.

It would also be wise to check the clearance between the valve spring retainer and the valve guide, especially on the exhaust side (i.e. how far the valve can open before it hits). Stock heads can't always accommodate the lift of that cam without the retainer crashing into the guide. See above regarding "coil bind" for the outcome of that: it has pretty much the same effect. Metal-to-metal parts interference.

Right, the FP rod is just a normal one AFAIK. If you're worried about it, you can buy a new one from GM by the part # listed for the ZZ4 motor, and be sure you're getting a compatible one.

 

Spend the $80 for a fuel pump, dont cheap out.