backfire popping issue
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From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
backfire popping issue
I recently installed an Accel car and rotor kit along with Accel 8mm plug wires and Bosch +2 spark plugs. Since then my car backfires sometimes pops alot and doesnt stay running until the car has been driven for like 5-10 mintues.(car dies after being started and have to step on gas to start)
I havent replaced the coil yet though, could that be my problem. I also just changed to fuel filter and that didnt help the starting and running condition. I dont have smog or purge canister in car.
I havent replaced the coil yet though, could that be my problem. I also just changed to fuel filter and that didnt help the starting and running condition. I dont have smog or purge canister in car.
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From: kissimmee fl
Car: 88 iroc-z z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: backfire popping issue
Im going through the same issue. My thread is up here too, just to let you know what HAs been done to mine so far
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From: Mass, Boston
Car: 1988 GTA Black notchback
Engine: 1991 L98 355 TWIN Superchagred
Transmission: 700r4 shift kit 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: www.cardomain.com/id/gtafanatic
Re: backfire popping issue
start with the getting rid of the plugs those plugs don't work so well on TPIs
the botch 4 are bad too. I USE the AC delco, then you going to want to check your timing, it sounds like it running rich. Is the backfire coming from the intake? NO right.
when did it start happeing was it right after you changed the plugs?
also if it was the wires being off the car would not run ok after warming up.
the botch 4 are bad too. I USE the AC delco, then you going to want to check your timing, it sounds like it running rich. Is the backfire coming from the intake? NO right.
when did it start happeing was it right after you changed the plugs?
also if it was the wires being off the car would not run ok after warming up.
Thread Starter
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From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
Re: backfire popping issue
so check my wiring, will do as soon as sun light pops up
no backfire comes from ypipe, I know its running rich cause i can smell it. also im have a broken ypipe right where the cat meets it and i know that is letting in air causing the o2 sensor to tell the ecu im running rich.(i read that out of motorbooks:how to tune and modify your 1982-1998 Camaro)
no backfire comes from ypipe, I know its running rich cause i can smell it. also im have a broken ypipe right where the cat meets it and i know that is letting in air causing the o2 sensor to tell the ecu im running rich.(i read that out of motorbooks:how to tune and modify your 1982-1998 Camaro)
Last edited by KamikazeIroccy; Mar 31, 2008 at 09:48 PM.
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From: Mass, Boston
Car: 1988 GTA Black notchback
Engine: 1991 L98 355 TWIN Superchagred
Transmission: 700r4 shift kit 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: www.cardomain.com/id/gtafanatic
Re: backfire popping issue
1st i would cheak the timming
2nd i would switch out the plugs to AC with the right gap, if you gap the car wrong it will run like ****. that why the botch 2,4 are no good you can not gap them
2nd i would switch out the plugs to AC with the right gap, if you gap the car wrong it will run like ****. that why the botch 2,4 are no good you can not gap them
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Thread Starter
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From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,023
Likes: 2,496
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: backfire popping issue
1st would be LEAVE THE TIMING ALONE, unless you've already dinked with it; in which case, put it back where it was, lock it down, and THEN leave it alone. Not sure what "timming" is; sounds like something we would catch my brother Tim doing when he thought nobody was watching; but leave that alone too.
2nd would be, don't worry about the plugs; they're fine. Lots of people use them. They're actually Nippodenso, except with that stupid screw-off terminal for the wire. That's the only problem with them. But that won't cause what you've got; so leave them alone too. They're not the source of your issues. Maybe after you get the REAL problem fixed, you might want to go back and re-consider; but right now, stay focused on fixing your car instead of just dinking with things that aren't what's broken.
3rd, the car doesn't have vacuum advance; so forget about that as well. Not that it could possibly be the cause in the first place; but there's even less sense in worrying about something that's not included in your car.
4th, check your wires. I'd bet money you have 2 of them swapped. 5 & 7 are the most likely, but it could be others, like 4 & 6. Just, check them carefully, as if you're some a$$hole boss coming back behind a tech trying to find fault with his work because he's looking for reasopns to fire him; and NOT as if you're yourself, trying to verify that your work is OK. Different mindset while looking at them. You're LOOKING FOR ERRORS, and not COMFORTING YOURSELF THAT YOUR WORK IS GOOD.
2nd would be, don't worry about the plugs; they're fine. Lots of people use them. They're actually Nippodenso, except with that stupid screw-off terminal for the wire. That's the only problem with them. But that won't cause what you've got; so leave them alone too. They're not the source of your issues. Maybe after you get the REAL problem fixed, you might want to go back and re-consider; but right now, stay focused on fixing your car instead of just dinking with things that aren't what's broken.
3rd, the car doesn't have vacuum advance; so forget about that as well. Not that it could possibly be the cause in the first place; but there's even less sense in worrying about something that's not included in your car.
4th, check your wires. I'd bet money you have 2 of them swapped. 5 & 7 are the most likely, but it could be others, like 4 & 6. Just, check them carefully, as if you're some a$$hole boss coming back behind a tech trying to find fault with his work because he's looking for reasopns to fire him; and NOT as if you're yourself, trying to verify that your work is OK. Different mindset while looking at them. You're LOOKING FOR ERRORS, and not COMFORTING YOURSELF THAT YOUR WORK IS GOOD.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Apr 2, 2008 at 09:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 546
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From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
Re: backfire popping issue
1st would be LEAVE THE TIMEING ALONE, unless you've already sinked with it; in which case, put it back where it was, lock it down, and THEN leave it alone. Not sure what "timming" is; sounds like something we would catch my brother Tim doing when he thought nobody was watching; but leave that alone too.
2nd would be, don't worry about the plugs; they're fine. Lots of people use them. They're actually Nippodenso, except with that stupid screw-off terminal for the wire. That's the only problem with them. But that won't cause what you've got; so leave them alone too. They're not the source of your issues. Maybe after you get the REAL problem fixed, you might want to go back and re-consider; but right now, stay focused on fixing your car instead of just dinking with things that aren't what's broken.
3rd, the car doesn't have vacuum advance; so forget about that as well. Not that it could possibly be the cause in the first place; but there's even less sense in worrying about something that's not included in your car.
4th, check your wires. I'd bet money you have 2 of them swapped. 5 & 7 are the most likely, but it could be others, like 4 & 6. Just, check them carefully, as if you're some a$$hole boss coming back behind a tech trying to find fault with his work because he's looking for reasopns to fire him; and NOT as if you're yourself, trying to verify that your work is OK. Different mindset while looking at them. You're LOOKING FOR ERRORS, and not COMFORTING YOURSELF THAT YOUR WORK IS GOOD.
2nd would be, don't worry about the plugs; they're fine. Lots of people use them. They're actually Nippodenso, except with that stupid screw-off terminal for the wire. That's the only problem with them. But that won't cause what you've got; so leave them alone too. They're not the source of your issues. Maybe after you get the REAL problem fixed, you might want to go back and re-consider; but right now, stay focused on fixing your car instead of just dinking with things that aren't what's broken.
3rd, the car doesn't have vacuum advance; so forget about that as well. Not that it could possibly be the cause in the first place; but there's even less sense in worrying about something that's not included in your car.
4th, check your wires. I'd bet money you have 2 of them swapped. 5 & 7 are the most likely, but it could be others, like 4 & 6. Just, check them carefully, as if you're some a$$hole boss coming back behind a tech trying to find fault with his work because he's looking for reasopns to fire him; and NOT as if you're yourself, trying to verify that your work is OK. Different mindset while looking at them. You're LOOKING FOR ERRORS, and not COMFORTING YOURSELF THAT YOUR WORK IS GOOD.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,023
Likes: 2,496
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: backfire popping issue
what will the car do if the plugs are gapped wrong?
Practically any gap between .030" and .060" (roughly 1/32" and 1/16") is fine..... IOW, "gap spec" = "yes". Stock specs vary from .035" to .050", with no underlying difference whatsoever in the parts themselves. Most plugs that you buy these days, will come out of their package at around .040", which is totally fine. As long as they haven't been dropped or something, which would close the electrodes down; or snagged on something, which might bend them open; they'll be fine.
Plus, think about it... there's 8 of them. They'd have to ALL be wacked, or at least MOST of them, to cause the whole engine to malfunction. Bottom line, if you have a hard-start problem, most likely, it's not from that.
Thread Starter
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From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
Re: backfire popping issue
to my amazement i went outside this morning and my car cranked right up and didnt die out!?
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Re: backfire popping issue
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, Missouri
Car: '87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355cid Cam'd
Transmission: T5 Manual
Axle/Gears: Stock 9 Bolt
Re: backfire popping issue
were you tryng to be sarcastic?
And im positive the wires are correct, ive checked and had someone else check a couple of times
And im positive the wires are correct, ive checked and had someone else check a couple of times
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