1991 Firebird 5.0 TBI 160,000 Miles, Recently changed MAP, Thermostat, air filter, breather filter, and flushed radiator refilled with 50 50 (Was only running water). Just bought Drove from LA to Bakersfield 150 Miles.

My car when first starting, from a cold start, starts right up and Idles for a second and dies unless I put on some gas, after i put gas on for a bit the car will idle without me having to put on gas, when it does finally idle by itself the idle is really F-ed up its like revving its self the oil pressure goes up and down with the idle, When I go to drive the car will stall out if I put on more than A tiny push on the peddle until the car warms up to about 190-200 then I can put gas on but still idles wrong and still feels like its gonna stall out but its does not. The check engine light comes on after driving for a few I am getting codes 32 and 44 I replaced the MAP and am going to replace the O2 today but I need help has anyone had this problem or can anyone help. Sorry about the long post.

Dan

 

Bump

Really need the help guys

 

Probably EGR. Code 32 points right to the EGR. 44 is lean exaughst. If the EGR is stuck open this may cause the lean condition.

 

How do I check if its is stuck. Sorry if its a dumb question.

 

Might also be the switch too come to think of it. The EGR valve is the big round thing on the passenger side between the throttle body and the distributor. There is a vacuum line that attaches at the top. this vacuum line goes to a switch that is mounted to a bracket at the rear of the engine by the firewall. This will have another vacuum line that connect to the front of the throttle body (I think). And an electrical connector.

You might want to start by making sure that the switch is plugged in and that the vacuum lines are in good condition and not leaking.

There are three things that can happen to this style of EGR valve.

1. Doesn't open when it should.
What can cause this is either the diaphragm has a leak or is not getting vacuum. Checking for vacuum is kinda difficult since the EGR only gets vacuum to it under load while driving. Maybe someone here can help with how to check this. I suppose you could jumper a wire on the switch, but I don't know how to do that off the top of my head. To check the diaphragm you can do this with a vacuum pump and see if it hold vacuum. Or you can actually open it by pushing the diaphragm up, then put your finger over the vacuum port on the top. The diaphragm should more or less stay in position. If it goes back down then you have a leak.

2. Open when it should not be open.
This can be caused by it getting vacuum when it should not. In this case the switch would probably be the issue. The other cause of this is actual debris that is stuck and holding it open. The only way to fix that is to pull it apart and give things a good cleaning.

3. EGR just plain stuck.
If you can not move the diaphragm in the EGR with your fingers then it will need to be replaced.

Hope this helps

 

dude it is so easy to block off that egr..If you dont have emissions laws that is....otherwise all you have to do is pull the vacuum line from the egr and plug it.as stated above the egr only works under a load so it will stay closed when the hose is disconnected..drive the car and see if you tell any differance if so block it off or buy a new one


oh I had the same problem did everything you did then found out it was the egr valve.so luck to ya bro

 

So all I have to do is block that vaccum line to test it ok I will give it a try tomorrow thanks for the help