I admit to my own stupidity here, but I screwed up when I replaced the distributor on my '86 Firebird 2.8L some time ago, and I thought I was being overly cautious about marking positions and cap terminals. I was unable to finish the installation, and starting. Now that I can try starting it, I checked Haynes, Chiltons and Motors and got 3 different positions for the location of the #1 terminal on the distributor cap and got 3 different answers! I looked inside the new Accel cap but there are no markings, and when I checked the old cap, I got a 4th answer for its location! Someone please help. They all say the rotor spins clockwise and firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6, which is different from what I noted when I removed the old cap. I need help here too. If you can help please make references to the flat face on the cap and the terminal closest to the block or the firewall as a starting point to count from. I think that's the easiest way to describe where #1 is.

 

One thing that you may have missed is that the #1 cylinder is on the right side of the engine. This is the passenger side for US folks.

As for the #1 terminal on the cap, it really doesn't matter. As long as the wires are on correctly and the distributor can rotate far enough to time it (10* BTDC).

Now, usually, it is nice to have the #1 cap terminal pointing at the #1 cylinder. But it really doesn't matter (does that make sense?). It is all on how the wires are located.

> They all say the rotor spins clockwise and firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6

This is correct.

If you rotate the crank until the widest timing mark (some dampers have multiple marks), is at 0*. Then drop the distributor, this will be TDC on either #1 or #4. Can try it and if it doesn't work lift the distributor and rotate 180*, or swap the wires around.

Note that when hooking up the timing light I like to use #4 cylinder (center left side). This way the wire isn't draped over the engine to be caught in the accessory belts.

Open the EST/BYPASS for this and set it to 10* BTDC (for the stock setting). Note that final timing is best done on a warmed up engine.

RBob.

 

Hey Rbob,
Thanx for the help and advice. It's really appreciated. I never heard of using any cylinder other than #1 to set timing. If I can get it started (assuming nothing else is wrong) I'll give it a try. Why haven't engine manufacturers put the timing plates (marks) on the same of the engine as #1? For the past 40 years or so that I've done my own tune ups, every "V" engine I owned had the marks on the opposite side. Oh well. We'll just have to go on living with it since we love our old cars so much.

 

This would work on most (all?) engines, just need to know which cylinder is 180* out from #1 on the distributor. Which puts that cylinder 360* out from #1 at the crank. Such as using #6 on a SBC. But that has the issue where the timing light wire would be draped over the engine. So it isn't done.

On the 2.8l/3.1l engines #1 plug wire is also more difficult to get to. Not so much when using a clamp on type pickup. But the ancient timing light needs to be put in-line of the spark plug wire.

Noticed your post count, welcome to TGO. Also, there is a V6 board here that can be better suited for questions on the V6 cars.

RBob.

 

Hey RBob,
If you're out there and reading this, thanks for the great advice you gave me back in December about my V6 and the distributor, firing order, etc. I finally had the time and weather to finish the job and actually got it started! You were a great help.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Now I can make it my daily driver again.

my86bird