I have to replace a bunch of gaskets and seals and I do not have the tools/experience to do a few of them.
About how much money would it cost to have my rear main seal, intake manifold end seals and the valve seals professionally replaced?
My car is a 1985 Iroc, Holley 4 barrel, 5.0l engine

 

Most guys on here do their own work, so I guess you'll have to call around for a estimate.

 

I'm guessing the engine is still in the car and assembled?

It'll cost you around $80 - 100 / hr. Figure on around 20 hrs.

A bunch of other things will have to be disturbed in the process; there'll be a WHOLE LONG LIST of "might as well"s.

I would expect your bank account to be at least $2000 lighter by the time this is all done; to replace $20 worth of parts.

Sounds like it's worth it to acquire the tools, and you're about to also acquire the experience.

 

So I may as well just ask here:
Looking at the bottom of my car (at least I have a jack and some stands :) I have a small hole in my oil pan. I know in some other cars and trucks (mostly trucks) you can reach the rear main seal if you remove the oil pan to do a backyard job (I think if its a 2 piece seal?). Does this work on a third gen? I'm going to replace it sooner or later, but if I can kill two birds with one stone then I will.

 

the motor will have to be lifted to finagle the pan out. lifting it high enough requires disconnecting all but a few of the bolts/etc. that prevent it from being removed completely. trying to clean and re-gasket under the car whilst gunk is dripping on you won't make an enjoyable day either.

If you decide to go forward we can provide some recommendations and help.

 

As long as I don't need an engine hoist or air tools I can do it on my own.

 

It's been done before with a jack under the balancer - with an appropriately shaped wooden block, I believe. Haven't done so myself. Do a search and you may run across a thread that walks you through.

 

Yeah, I did a couple searches and found some results both on here and some other websites. This is going to be a large PITA job, but if it saves me a few hundred bucks I wont complain.
No one can ever say I don't love that car.

 

lol gz , my advice is, buy the tools and do the job your self. its worth it. The job sucks to do. but you get a hell of alot pride out of doing it tho..

you can jack the balancer. but i think its easier if you jack it up by the pan with a flat peice of wood. than try to get a couple small peices of wood that are 3 inches thick and stick them in the engine mounts and you gona be good money. pan will slide out niceeee

 

I'd also recommend replacing the seal on the timing cover prior, as the oil pan seal mates to it. The balancer removal/install tools can be 'rented' at AZ or one of the other chains.

Carefully inspect the surface of the balancer while it's out for wear on the surface that rides on the seal (round seal in the timing cover). If it's worn you can get a repair sleeve, or replace the balancer with a new one (be my rec).

One piece seal for the oil pan. Should also come with new pan bolts and handy-dandy plastic thingies that hold the gasket in place while the pan is lifted up. Never used them myself though.

If you're at all oily and messy under there, do the car wash thing with engine degreaser and the spray wand to clean it as much as possible BEFORE you start the work.