Hey all. Been reading thru a lot of old threads and really can't find what I'm looking for. About 70% complete on my build, Motors still out of the Bird. Ok here goes... I've got a 1997 Tahoe block with 906 Vortec heads. Everything else on the motor is off my 1990 Formula 350.. EVERYTHING, except Hooker 2460's and my Edelbrock 3817 manifold. I have both the flexplates (168t) (156t I believe) and only the mammoth stock starter off the Firebird (It's band new btw, but that's another story) Questions are.. Can I, should I use the Firebird starter and flexplate? Can I, should I use the Tahoe flexplate and buy a starter? I DO NOT want to drill another hole! These are things I'm trying to figure out tonight before my limited time Saturday morning when I get back on it. Keep in mind I have Hooker 2460 ceramic coated headers.. I 've read there can be issues with installing but like I said the blocks still on the stand. Appreciate the help guys! On a side note I have not installed the my 3817 "over priced" intake manifold yet.. is the coolant bypass a MUST considering my Birds a 90 and these are made specifically for 90+ Third Gens?

 

Either will work.

The Bird stuff will give you better exh clearance than the Hoe stuff.

Don't be too surprised if the old starter lacks the testicular fortitude to actually turn your motor over. In that case, get some one of the plentiful aftermarket gear-reduction units to replace that archaic stooopid Delco direct-drive POS from the Paleolithic Era.

 

153t flexplate, got it. New starter, got it. Use old Aircraft Carrier Starter for a boat anchor, got it. lol. Now other threads are saying I'm going to have to drill a third hole for this application on my l31 block? Is there a universal (smaller) starter that will work with my Bird flexplate and the Hoe block? One under $100 preferably.. My $2000 build budget went waaaayyyy over budget a loooong time ago! Thx Sofakingdom

 

No 3rd hole drilling necessary. The newer block should already have the newer hole.

 

The vortec engine's stock starter should be a mini gear reduction starter. I use a 1998 1500 vortec 350 truck starter on my V8 S10.

Here is a picture I took of a new parts store replacement full size high torque and the vortec mini starter https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...3141738-00.jpg

 

And compatible with the MSD points distributor off the Bird I'm using?!

 

No, that it is not. No resistor wire terminal on the vortec starter. Just the start and battery cable.

Just a question... In this day and age why would you run a points ign. system?

 

HEI? style I'm assuming is what you'd call the one off my 90 Bird. Sorry, first 3rd gen, lol. I gotta catch up with the times and get my terminology right. For some reason (blond moment) I just can't wrap my head around this starter question? Pocket port my own heads but can't figure out what starter will work, lol. I got it now.. I did some digging last night and a guy linked a really nice mini starter with the "whine" be bought from Rareelectrical. Guys running my set up too. Only $65 including shipping. Gunna see what happens. Thx all, I'll do a follow up after completed in case there's another bone head out there like me in the future..

 

Oh ok, you are talking about a small cap divorced coil HEI dist.

In that case yes the vortec mini starter will work just fine.

The old points system (pre 1973) had breaker points with a cam that opened/closed the points. With those you need 12 volts to the points while cranking, but only 6 volts to points during running or the points will burn up. So the starters had 3 post on them. One S (start) that your ign. switch hooked to, one R (resistor) that your dist. points hooked to, and one battery cable post that your battery goes to.