1989 350 TPI

I have been doing a lot of work to this car.
It was running fine but one day I drove it to work and it started malfunctioning.

Symptoms:
It starts very good and I can accelerate good when cold.
After it warms up it looses power while driving, the fuel consumption gets pretty bad, like less than 10 miles per gallon, when I accelerate it feels like is drowning and then picks up, a lot of smoke while driving and gas smell.

And after a while of driving it like that sometimes it throws the engine light and I think is code 13.

Since this started happening I have replaced spark plugd and spark plug wires.

 

That's a coolant temp sensor code if memory serves.

Change that out. It's very little $$$ and fairly easy to do. For that matter, might just be unplugged.

 

Ok, I started early this morning and followed the Oxygen Sensor line just to find out that there was non installed, so I went and uninstalled my headers, drilled the hole for it because the Hooker headers had a plug with the thread but it was sealed inside.
<img src="http://images.wrenchead.com/Smartpages/partinfo_resize/DCL/213-1165_PRIMARY.jpg" width="250" height="250">

After installing the Oxygen Sensor I also replaced the temperature sensor, the one that looks like this...

<img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thirdgen.org-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-238253d1334364156_location_coolant_temperature_sensor_sensor_temp_1acef222497f80d8c7ce4506af535d52dad86333.jpg" width="250" height="250">

After all that put everything back together and same problem.

 

A little more information...

Al the smog items were deleted before I got the car including the cats.
When I got It I installed new oil sender, now all my gauges work.

Right after the problem started I replaced Spark plugs with ACDelco ADO-R45TS and spark plug wires with MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor MSD-31839.
I have Hooker Headers 2640HKR.

 

This is the engine...

 

Nice stickerzzzz.

The "sen-sore" the pic isn't a "sen-sore" at all; it's the temp gauge sending unit. Not the right thing. All it does is work the trim package in the dash. Nothing actually functional.

So, when you changed out the coolant temp sensor, did it clear up?

 

The code I think was for oxygen sensor but it only show after like an hour of driving, when I start the car again later is gone.

The problem still going on.

 

So what happened when you changed out the coolant temp sensor?

 

Nothing happened, I still have the same problem.

 

Like sofa so eloquently stated, the coolant part you pictured is a sender that informs the gauge and doesn't affect the engine. The part you need to change is the CTS, otherwise known as the coolant temperature sensor that communicates with the computer. Change that out and see what happens

 

Is that the one on the other side?
The fan switch?

 

No it is not the fan switch. Read what I said. IT IS CALLED THE CTS, short for coolant temperature sensor. Look it up, it fits into the intake somewhere around the thermostat housing in the water jacket. Has a plug in connector with TWO wires going to it . It gives the computer temp info to manage the way the engine is controlled
Oh yeah, and the wires are black and yellow

 

Ahhh, the CTS!!

Got you!

I will locate it and replace it!




Thank you!

 

...

 

That's waaaaay off topic.

Please let's focus on the main issue.

 

Good luck ......

 

My money says one or more fuel injectors have gone bad and stop working correctly because of high resistance after the engine warms up.

 

How can I prove your theory?

I will be replacing CTS sensor and distributor cap and rotor tomorrow.

 

Warm the engine to operating temp and then shut it down; connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Make sure that the rail holds pressure and doesn't bleed off, which would be an indicator of a leaky injector.

Next, with the engine off and the fuel rail pressurized use a 9 volt battery to energize the fuel injectors one at a time, watch the fuel pressure gauge to verify the fuel pressure drops when you energize the injector. If the injector doesn't open and cause a drop in pressure when you energize it, it's because it's coil is bad and has high resistance.

Change any injector that you find leaking down or not opening when energized. I've seem lots of injectors work fine when cold, then stop working after the engine warms up.

 

That's was a really good explanation.


I will replace what I already have on-hand and try to get the fuel pressure gauge this weekend, thank you!

 

Even better way is, do what you're already planning to do, FIRST; then, AND ONLY THEN, take the next step.

Focus. Stay on task. One thing at a time, TO COMPLETION. Logic. Reason.

As opposed to, "maybe it's this maybe it's that"; scattergun; start a million projects, finish none, end up with giant pile of fertilizer; disturb things better left alone (like, ANTIQUE electrical parts and wiring); and so on.

Not that MSgt's suggestion isn't "good", or anything like that; he could very well be right; just, ONE THING AT A TIME. Finish, complete, shut the hood, drive off, test, THEN AND ONLY THEN mess with something else.

 

Yes, first what I already have for this weekend.



I have fuel filter, CTS sensor and distributor cap and rotor.

 

Ok, replaced CTS, thermostat, fan switch, distributor cover and rotor.

Still having the same problem.

Codes 12, 13 and 23.

12 is nothing
13 Oxygen sensor circuit
23 Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor

 

Yup went and looked up the codes: 14 & 15 are the CTS ones, 13 is about the O2 sensor. Sorry.

23 is probably the MAT sensor unplugged. Maybe the wiring or connector damaged.

13, best thing to do at this point is probably just change it out. I would try that before messing with injectors.

Again, sorry; I should have actually looked it up instead of going off of memory. You know what "they" say... when you get old, your memory is the 2nd thing that goes; problem is, I can't remember what the 1st was supposed to be.

 

Read post #3
I have a newone installed last weekend.

 

Then you're just going to have to troubleshoot it. Could also be damaged wiring or connector(s).

 

I was thinking to get the Bluetooth adapter and get the software and do some datalog.

 

Ok, I disconnected the Air temperature sensor, relocated it to the air ram intake and got a new sensor from a 1989 camaro v6.

Problem solved, car runs way better, no codes at all.
Even feels better than before.